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Direct Action
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British A4
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in 5. Ribbon Falls Amphitheater
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Chockstone Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Destiny Express T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3 |
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Direct Action T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 |
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Gates of Delirium T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gold Rush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2- |
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Gold Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2-3 PG13 |
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Golden Bough T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Laughing at the Void 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+ |
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Resist! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+ |
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Ribbon Candy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Silent Line, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 |
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Spaghetti Western T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 1150 ft (348 m), 7 pitches, Grade V |
| GPS: | 37.73456, -119.64807 |
| FA: | Steve Bosque , Jens Christ, Kevin DeWeese Feb 2020 |
| Page Views: | 1,472 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin DeWeese on Feb 18, 2020 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Mostly thin nailing. Shares part of the final pitch, an anchor, and rap anchors with Resist! and allows for "mix and match" climbing from the P3 anchors should one wish. Standout pitches are P2, P4, and P6. I consider this the best route of the three we've put up on that side of the amphitheater. NOTE: This route has a typo in its grade in the Bigwalls guide that lists it as A2. It is not.
Pitch 1: 180' - A2
- Climb up broken ledges before moving left into a left facing system that takes thin nailing.
Pitch 2: 100' - A3
- Continue up obvious seam splitting the face. Becomes thinner as you get higher.
Pitch 3: 95' - A2
- Penji right from anchors and climb dual cracks up and over a bulge to the anchors. Nailing and small cams.
Pitch 4: 175' - A4
- Primarily hooks, small heads, microcams, and small beaks for this pitch. Start from left side of belay, move up then traverse right through hooks, beaks, and heads to reach the rivets that bypass a loose flake (careful as this is right over the anchor) followed by hooking to a left facing system that takes a few microcams and beaks, followed by more hooking and beaks to reach the rivets and hooks to the anchors. This pitch felt very similar to the pitches on Roulette.
Pitch 5: 180' - A2
- Rivets left to a large ledge, hook or mantel ledge, then follow obvious system passing another ledge up to anchors. Optional gear belay can be made at second ledge.
Pitch 6: 195' - A3
- Beaks up to stance next to dead tree then rivets followed by penji around the arete, tenuous beaking on a fragile flake reaches a beak system the leads to a perfect C1 crack that leads to a mantel and a couple moves to reach the anchor.
Pitch 7: 90' - C1 and free
- Step to the right and finish on the final pitch of Resist!.
Descent: (All double rope raps) Rap from final pitch of Resist! to the next anchor for Resist! (skipping the previous belay for Direct Action), Rap to the next anchor for Resist!, Rap to the P4 anchors for Direct Action, Rap to P3 anchors for Direct Action, Rap to P1 anchors for Direct Action, Rap to ground.
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