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The Crying Python

Name: The Crying Python
Rating: 1.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British C0

Routes in Heat Wave Area

	Crying Python, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C0
	Hip Dysplasia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 PG13
	Hissing Cobra, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1+ PG13
	Misplaced Lunate T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C1-

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Type:	Trad, Aid, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	38.65297, -109.69234
FA:	BK and MP
Page Views:	610 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Ben Kiessel on Feb 10, 2020
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.

Description

We started up a chossy chimney to the west 150’ and then continued upward and eastward in the chimney until we got to the tower about 60’ up. This was probably 5.8 and about 200’. There is a little ledge here deep in a cleft that is at the base of a short OW that is the saddle between the tower and the main wall behind. There is a direct line that might be the better option to this point. Matt thought it would go at 5.9. From here continue up the flared OW into the chimney and continue placing some random cams along the way (.5, .4, .75). Stem up until you can reach the first of two bolts. 5.5 takes you from the bolts to the top. The anchor is on the NW side of the tower. Divide the route into pitches as you see fit. (I soloed the first bit then threw a rope down to Matt who was on the ground and hauled up the gear. We did the route in 1 contrived pitch with considerable rope drag.)

Location

This tower is on the far north side of the northern most cluster of rocks that make up the Dinosaur Junction Cliffs. The Crying Python is just west of The Hissing Cobra. Getting through the lower cliff band is most easily done from the west. We followed an old road then up to the base of the cliff then traversed south until we could scramble through.