Type: Trad, TR, Ice, 115 ft (35 m)
GPS: 44.72849, -72.78533
FA: Bob Timmer & Alex Sargent
Page Views: 902 total · 12/month
Shared By: Juanny Lopes on Jan 26, 2020
Admins: Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514

You & This Route


2 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a radical pitch!

Climb a couple of small ice bulges to the base of a vertical pillar. Climb steeply to the top of the pillar to where it ends under a giant roof. If the ice continues, step right onto another pillar that leads slighly higher until it caps out again underneath the roof. From here, step right onto the giant free hanging curtain/dagger and climb this to the trees.

This climb is condition dependent and difficulties can vary based on how much ice is present under the roof and how large the hanging curtain is. In some conditions, mixed climbing may be needed to reach the dagger and in other conditions, you may be able to step onto the dagger far earlier before the roof. Either way, expect a wild experience!

There is a variation that breaks left at the top of the first pillar instead, this is deemed 'Bear Left' WI 4 (Timmer, Severin, Sargent).

Location Suggest change

This is the center route of the main amphitheater on the left end of Bear Notch.

Protection Suggest change

Screws. There are some rusty, old pins at the top of the first and second pillars, under the roof - not very confidence inspiring. Route can be TR'd by walking around the clif on climbers' left or leading one of the other routes first.

Photos

loading