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Routes in Underworld
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Alias T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Armed and Dangerous T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Armed Robbery T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blood Brothers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bloody Back T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cerberus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Charon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cmobog T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Corruption T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cottonmouth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Criminal Ballistics T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Extortion T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Floyd's Jam T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hungry Ghosts aka Preta S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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In the Moment T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Made Man T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mexican Mafia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Mr. Perfect T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Orcus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Osiris T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Persephone T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pluto S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Racquiescence T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Self Doubt S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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She screams, Frozen until the warmth of another death. From the final gate she whispers her curse S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Size Doesn't Matter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Son of a Bit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unfinished Project T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Unknown 11- T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown 12b-ish T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Unknown 5.12 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Vice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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What’s My Line T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 25 ft (8 m) |
| GPS: | 37.31949, -113.71786 |
| FA: | Brandon Wilde |
| Page Views: | 590 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Jonah Small on Jan 13, 2020 |
| Admins: | Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: Some of the landowners have expressed that they do not want climbers crossing their land to access the cliff from the top (north).
Details
Unfortunately, some of the ranchers up above the cliff are not open to climbers crossing their land to reach the crag. In fall of 2024, we talked to a few landowners in the area above Underworld, and they were not happy with climbers accessing Underworld from above. We tried to chat with them about potential options that would make it reasonable for them, but they were confrontational and did not want to continue discussion.
I'm not sure if we met Trent specifically (the rancher mentioned in this photo/map showing access from the north mountainproject.com/photo/1…), but some of the others in the area were not psyched. A user put together another map with landowner beta here, but it is emphasized that you must ask for permission first, which could be challenging: mountainproject.com/photo/2….
It's best and simplest to take the original (long) approach from the south. Perhaps in the future we can work something out like an official easement trail, but for now, it seems unlikely. If you decide to track down a rancher and follow the northern approach beta in the photos/maps, you do so at your own risk.
I'm not sure if we met Trent specifically (the rancher mentioned in this photo/map showing access from the north mountainproject.com/photo/1…), but some of the others in the area were not psyched. A user put together another map with landowner beta here, but it is emphasized that you must ask for permission first, which could be challenging: mountainproject.com/photo/2….
It's best and simplest to take the original (long) approach from the south. Perhaps in the future we can work something out like an official easement trail, but for now, it seems unlikely. If you decide to track down a rancher and follow the northern approach beta in the photos/maps, you do so at your own risk.
Description
Short route that always feels a little harder than it looks. Easy to get to and catches evening sun.
Location
Underworld South - this route is on the opposite side of the canyon as most other routes. This means it is much faster to get to if you choose to take the Prophecy Wall road out and hike in off the high clearance road. This also means it gets afternoon sun in the winter. Take the trail as if you were going to the Underworld, but cut right at the base of the cliff instead of continuing down the trail to the river - cairns mark the way along the base of the cliff. Follow this for a couple hundred yards. This route is about 50ft before Cottonmouth and the carabiners on the bolts are very easy to see from the ground.
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