Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
FA: Tom Bauman and Jan Newman, 1975.
Page Views: 201 total · 12/month
Shared By: gso Orton on Dec 26, 2019
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

From the uphill north saddle ridge behind Eagle Rock follow the Parkway Ledge around the right (west) side to the south face of Eagle Rock. Before Parkway Ledges ends you will find a crack and the start of Jumping Jump Flash.
Pitch-1 (5.10a - A1 if dirty): start from Parkway Ledge under an overhang into a short jam to a ledge with a two 1/4" belay bolts. Expect some aid if the crack is mossy.
Pitch-2 (5.7 - 5.8): Climb up and left to where a slab leads right and into a left facing corner. Follow this to the next belay ledge (one 1/4" bolt).
Pitch-3 (5.6 - 5.7): Climb up the left wall to a ledge about 20 feet above the belay. Traverse right into a short jam. Follow this to the summit.
Rappel down the Madrone Route (there are no chains).
PG = exposure and leads generally may be unsuited to someone transitioning from gym to outdoor climbing at the same rating.

Location

South face of Eagle Rock from the west side of Parkway Ledge.
Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007 Map 4 page 226, Topo F page 235.

Protection

1/4 inch bolts at belays, an assortment of trad gear.

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