The Vortex

A cool route that gains the summit of the Vortex Tower. The Vortex route is located on the Northwestern corner of the Vortex Tower and begins below a roof where two bolts can be spotted from the ground.

PITCH 1 (100ft) 5.9 - 4 bolts & bolted anchor
Climb past the first two bolts which are visible from the ground. Work your way left past the second bolt (crux) and pass the roof on the left side. Clip two more bolts on the upper face and either find a way through the slab above the 4th bolt or downclimb to the ledge and climb the wide crack on the left side of the ledge/face. Arrive at the ramp and follow it left to a bolted anchor. Protect the follower.

PITCH 2 (110ft) 5.10 - 6 bolts & bolted anchor
An solid pitch with steep thoughtful face climbing past bolts. At the top of the face, protect in the crack before running it out on easier climbing to a bolt located up and right on the slab. Climb up and right to the last bolt before moving back left to the anchor.

PITCH 3 (110ft) 5.10 - 1 bolt & bolted anchor: Clip the bolt above the anchor before traversing left using small feet and a handrail. Turn the corner and continue up and right following the water groove corner with thoughtful climbing and intermittent gear to the top. 

PITCH 4 (80ft) 5.2 - no protection & bolted anchor: Follow the easy slab ramp (no protection) to an anchor located about 30ft below the actual tower summit. This pitch can be linked with pitch 3.

DESCENT

• Bring webbing/cord for rappel 2 and 3 and a 70m rope
• FIRST RAPPEL (80ft) bolted anchor: Rap down the slabby ramp from the top of pitch 4 back to the anchor at the top of pitch 3.
• SECOND RAPPEL (115ft) bolted anchor with cord: Rap down the southwest side of tower to a ledge with a tree/bush.
• THIRD RAPPEL (100ft) bolted anchor with cord: Rap to the ground. Detach from the rope on top of the large boulder. Coil the rope and exit the top of the boulder

The start isn't very far from the Beckey route. Essentially you want to walk to climbers right of the broad north face of this dome. About 150 ft right of "Clean n' Wing".

Singles to red camalot and doubles of gold and blue. A #4 and #5 can be used to make one feel extra safe.