Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV
GPS: 42.71127, -109.15716
FA: Peter Cole and Gustavo Brillembourg - August 25th, 1983
Page Views: 880 total · 11/month
Shared By: Peter Cole on Nov 16, 2019
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

I found this long ago topo written on the back inside cover of my copy of Kelsey's 1980 Sierra Club guide to the WRR. Having done this route 3 times, I'm fairly confident this is an accurate description of the route Gustavo and I took so long ago in 1983. (May he rest in peace)

Approach: Locate start about 50' down from the notch between LTS and the S Ridge of Steeple. It begins as a ledge. Move out right 30' or so and belay at the start of a ramp.

P1: Up ramp to it's end 170' 5.4-5.5 - 170'

P2: From top of small block reach up to horizontal crack. Hand traverse right (5.8) 15' to small corner. Up this and the undercling left 15' to ledge (5.9) - 75'

P3: Face climb on chickenheads left 20' past one corner and climb 2nd on up and eventually slightly right  - 5.8 - 140'

P4: Surmount flakey mantle to ledge. Move right past one corner (chimney) and ascend 2nd left facing corner to ledge. - 5.9 - 130'

P5: Up a few feet then left into slightly flared left facing corner. Move up with caution past flake and belay at a small ledge. 5.9 - 80'

P6: Up right hand of two corners above to semi hanging belay. 5.10 - 80'

P7: Move right and ascend OW cracks and hand cracks to ledge below summit overhangs. 5.10 - 150'

P8: Surmount overhangs (A1) and finish at will.

Location Suggest change

Over the years, I've become more fond of approaching climbs above Deep Lake by way of Rapid Creek. But on this occasion I think Gus and I took the std 'Little Sandy Trail' and setup
camp in the upper basin.


Campsite - 1983

From there we walked across ledges above the south end of Deep Lake and on up to the base of the spire. We got down quite late and had a bit of an epic finding the tent.

Protection Suggest change

Std alpine rack for the times. Wires, nuts and Friends.

Photos

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