Type: Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 12,191 total · 62/month
Shared By: Double J on Aug 22, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Hike up to the base of the spire on the southwest side of it by following a system of grassy ledges from below. The route is described in the "Hiking and climbing in the Winds...." very well (plus the sense of adventure). The route follows the ridge and the face to the right of it all the way up. One crux is on the second pitch and the other crux is up high, before the chimney pitch, depending on what path you choose on pitch 5/6. You can get down in 5 raps with two ropes (highly recommended). .

Approach via 3-5 class slabs. Be aware that rock fall from the wall/gully between the Spire and the main face travels across the approach slabs.  Once below East Temple, locate the base of the spire locate the clean ledge that marks the base of the route, for best images see Steph Abegg's work.  

P1. Locate and climb a short crack on the left side of the base to gain the ramp leading to the easy alternate start. Place gear and climb right around the roof. Continue up and left to gain a large ledge with a fixed anchor. 5.7, 100 ft.

P2: follow a finger/hand crack up a right facing dihedral to gain a ledge. From the ledge step up and right traversing under a roof. At the right end of the roof pull up and into a second right facing corner to gain a hand crack. Follow the hand crack to its end and a fixed anchor just above a large rectangular block. 10.a, 130 ft.

P3: Step right and pull over the easy roof into a wide hand crack. Follow crack through a series of terraces to reach a fixed belay. 5.8, 120 ft.

P4: This pitch wanders up and right a full 60 meters. Depending on the line taken, you may or may not pass a fixed belay at about 45 meters. Step down and right and across a gap to gain a hand crack to a ledge. 5.9, 150 ft.

P5:   Climb a left facing corner for about 20 feet until it ends with a move onto a ramp and a right facing corner. Follow the right facing corner on easier ground to reach a large ledge. Follow the ledge down and left to reach the base of P6. Build an anchor. 

10 .a, 70 ft.

P6/7: step left onto a slab to gain a discontinuous crack system. Climb the thin crack up to a ledge placing small gear as needed.  Climb the headwall using thin crack and edges to gain an roof/overlap. Traverse right to where the roof crack widens and pull up into the next series of seams.  Climb seams to a second roof. Either belay here or continue right along the crack to the start of the chimney. Set up a hanging belay left of the chimney.  10.b, 120 ft.

P8: Climb the face and chimney until you can place gear in the right wall. Enter the chimney and climb up and right to find a hand crack. Chimney up to a roof. Pull the roof to gain a wide hands offwith crack. Follow this to a large ledge. 5.7, 100 ft.

 P9: Climb or scramble over easier terrain to gain the summit.

Protection Suggest change

standard alpine rack, we found small stuff very usefull (C3's) up to a number 3 C4