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Routes in The Proctologist's Finger
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North Chimney T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Trevor Bowman and Ben Kiessel 10/25/19 |
| Page Views: | 963 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Trevor Bowman on Nov 8, 2019 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
A beautiful tower, just a little ways up Butts. It offers a pretty straightforward outing, that is probably one of the most psychologically accessible of the area.
Scramble up the awkward cleft between the Butts Plug and the Proctologist's Finger from the east side, and belay below the obvious chimney separating the flying buttress from the main finger.
P1--Ramble up a hollow, soft, easy pillar feature to the first hole you get to tunnel through, work through this generous opening to the south face, and writhe up some flared OW to the second hole, which is much less expansive and leads back to the top of the massive block that is wedged in the lower portion of the chimney. If you runner-ed the gear well and were mindful of the ropeline, you should be ok to continue. Chimney up, using a hollow pillar on the south wall for jams and gear, to a bedding seam shelf and bolt. Burrow deeper into the chimney and negotiate some awkward moves out of the bombay shelf back into the chimney using some questionable jug features. Wriggle to the shoulder and a chained anchor on the Finger proper, with a directional drilled angle on the comfy shoulder ledge to belay from. (5.9+, 125')
P2--An 8 bolt ladder (with one sketchy piece--finger-sized, offsets or tricams possibly helpful-- in a wierd natural hole, could be stickclipped past) to free climbing up to the white-rock summit cap, and a couple of "fraid" moves using slightly questionable cams to the summit block itself and cold-shut anchors. Mantle up to the tippy-top, wondering how the actual summit block is still in place... (5.9, C2, 75')
Rap off twice with one 70m rope.
Scramble up the awkward cleft between the Butts Plug and the Proctologist's Finger from the east side, and belay below the obvious chimney separating the flying buttress from the main finger.
P1--Ramble up a hollow, soft, easy pillar feature to the first hole you get to tunnel through, work through this generous opening to the south face, and writhe up some flared OW to the second hole, which is much less expansive and leads back to the top of the massive block that is wedged in the lower portion of the chimney. If you runner-ed the gear well and were mindful of the ropeline, you should be ok to continue. Chimney up, using a hollow pillar on the south wall for jams and gear, to a bedding seam shelf and bolt. Burrow deeper into the chimney and negotiate some awkward moves out of the bombay shelf back into the chimney using some questionable jug features. Wriggle to the shoulder and a chained anchor on the Finger proper, with a directional drilled angle on the comfy shoulder ledge to belay from. (5.9+, 125')
P2--An 8 bolt ladder (with one sketchy piece--finger-sized, offsets or tricams possibly helpful-- in a wierd natural hole, could be stickclipped past) to free climbing up to the white-rock summit cap, and a couple of "fraid" moves using slightly questionable cams to the summit block itself and cold-shut anchors. Mantle up to the tippy-top, wondering how the actual summit block is still in place... (5.9, C2, 75')
Rap off twice with one 70m rope.
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