All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > San Juan County > Blanding > Arch Canyon > Proctologist's Finger

North Chimney

Name: North Chimney
Rating: 3.2

5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British C2

Routes in The Proctologist's Finger

North Chimney T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2

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Type:	Trad, Aid, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	37.62552, -109.76718
FA:	Trevor Bowman and Ben Kiessel 10/25/19
Page Views:	1,066 total · 14/month
Shared By:	Trevor Bowman on Nov 8, 2019
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.

Description

A beautiful tower, just a little ways up Butts. It offers a pretty straightforward outing, that is probably one of the most psychologically accessible of the area.

Scramble up the awkward cleft between the Butts Plug and the Proctologist's Finger from the east side, and belay below the obvious chimney separating the flying buttress from the main finger.

P1--Ramble up a hollow, soft, easy pillar feature to the first hole you get to tunnel through, work through this generous opening to the south face, and writhe up some flared OW to the second hole, which is much less expansive and leads back to the top of the massive block that is wedged in the lower portion of the chimney. If you runner-ed the gear well and were mindful of the ropeline, you should be ok to continue. Chimney up, using a hollow pillar on the south wall for jams and gear, to a bedding seam shelf and bolt. Burrow deeper into the chimney and negotiate some awkward moves out of the bombay shelf back into the chimney using some questionable jug features. Wriggle to the shoulder and a chained anchor on the Finger proper, with a directional drilled angle on the comfy shoulder ledge to belay from. (5.9+, 125')

P2--An 8 bolt ladder (with one sketchy piece--finger-sized, offsets or tricams possibly helpful-- in a wierd natural hole, could be stickclipped past) to free climbing up to the white-rock summit cap, and a couple of "fraid" moves using slightly questionable cams to the summit block itself and cold-shut anchors. Mantle up to the tippy-top, wondering how the actual summit block is still in place... (5.9, C2, 75')

Rap off twice with one 70m rope.