Type: Trad, Alpine, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches
FA: Sean McLane and Jack Hill
Page Views: 574 total · 18/month
Shared By: Sean McLane on Oct 9, 2019
Admins: Lurker -, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

This is was climbed as an access route to the top of the Tower of Wotan. It is probably the easiest way to that summit.
P1) From the bottom of the large chimney, climb blocky terrain to reach the first large ledge. Carefully pull down on the Wheat-Thin-like flake system on the face above. Traverse right around the corner and belay on a sloping ledge. 5.10c PG13
P2) Downclimb around left past a tree and up a left-facing corner, then cut hard back right past the “falcon cave”. Traverse around 50 feet in total and end up under a flaring thin hands crack. 5.9
P3) Follow the crack into a left-facing corner where the crack flares and seams out. At the top, traverse right through the notch and climb unprotected 5.4 face to the tower’s summit. Rap from here off the opposite side (tat on bolts goes over the edge). 5.10d

Protection

Double rack, lots of slings

Photos