Midnight’s Children

A little traffic will make this a classic route. There are a couple variations that can make this between 5.10 and 5.11. The traditional start seems to be from the left shoulder up low 5th Class terrain to the ledge before things get vertical. There’s a two bolt anchor here. Starting up, there’s a pin on the left that looks like a harder start but is actually easier. The right start up an arcing crack is a bit stiffer. From there, it’s pretty straightforward past a few more pins up a mix of face and crack climbing. The crux is about 2/3 up on some lichen covered face climbing. There are 3 bolts are at the top, 2 1/4” and 1 3/8”. It is a full 40m to the lower anchor (eds. maybe, be careful!) and >60m to the ground off the south side; however it is possible to reach to west shoulder with a 40m rap (eds. maybe, be careful!). It is advisable to bring a second rope or tag line.

Additional note: the pins up there are ancient, and some are starting to wiggle. Bring plenty of thin gear to back those spots up. There are good placements, and I honestly wouldn't trust any of those pins in a fall.

The traditional start is to hike 10 minutes to the shoulder west of the face and start up low 5th terrain. Alternately, there is a lower 5.9 wider crack that starts just below and heads up and right before gaining the upper ramp.

Doubles in hand sizes to #3 and one #4. 2 ropes are advisable.