Type: Trad, TR, 110 ft (33 m)
GPS: 39.77221, -120.43353
FA: Jun' 19 BJ Zierolf 112572069 Brandon wiltzius 200214537
Page Views: 815 total · 10/month
Shared By: BJ Zierolf on Jun 8, 2019
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Wipe twice and clean these dirty cracks Suggest change

This route starts in an over hung corner but all the foot and hand holds are on the left face. you'll mantle out on a ledge of a decent cave with a nasty smelling turkey vulture nest deep with in.  face left and use the face to get into the off width flared crack that is blocked at the top with a boulder.  using the jammed boulder to mantle out and from that ledge traverse right and up the two spines on the face.  (5.8 variation would be staying in the left facing crack/side pulling for the next stretch with a mantle out). from the face you'll work up to the corner that the variation mantles to. follow the corner up mainly using the features on the left face while stemming past two small shrubs soon to be cut. finish with three 7' ledges to the top.    BD .2-6 cams usable plenty of gear placement available to sew this up. even a few horns on the face to sling.. the crux is certainly the off width crack as its very moss covered and and tend to be wet deep in it.  the second crux is once you traverse right on to the face the two spines make a shallow flared corner that's very off balance to climb.

Location Suggest change

at the start of the cliff face coming up the road there are two cairns that show a decent path to left that lead to the bottom. highly over grown  in places. following the cliff face/ scree field you'll come to a 20' cliff with a 5.5 scramble for 80'. 30' further the cliff band pinches into a corner with a clean white band on the left and orange moss of the right this is the start of the climb. its the only part of the base that has a substantial rock field and we cleared the bushes from the start/belay area.

GPS at top of route-39.772316,-120.433480

Protection Suggest change

R- rating  because there is three substantial ledges on this route you could blow gear and deck onto.
leading this takes a full rack from .2 -6. or you can TR with  two 4' diameter boulders that are half buried directly in front of two stout trees 6-9' off the edge respectively. or you can use a hex, nut and #3 as an anchor.

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