Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Northeast Slabs
Easy 5th YDS 1+ French 3 Ewbanks I UIAA 5 ZA M 1c British WI3 Mod. Snow
Avg: 3 from 7
votes
Routes in Winter-Spring (ice, snow, mixed)
|
|
East Face Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c AI3-4 M4-5 Steep Snow PG13 |
|
|
Northeast Slabs T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI3 Mod. Snow |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, Ice, Snow, 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Jim Nelson and Paul Stevenson, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 2,407 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Chris H on Mar 11, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
This route is best explained in Select Climbs in the Cascades Vol II, by Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield. The route is also mentioned in Becky Cascades Guide Vol 2.
Ascend the obvious slab on the NE side of the mountain. The second pitch can be difficult to protect with screws or pickets and trip reports refer to long run outs on thin ice and balancy mixed slab climbing. Get on to the North Ridge. From here, many lines are probably possible with varying difficulty. The dry rock Notch has an exposed low 5th class/M3 pitch over the east face, another easier way up further west probably exists. After the notch, it is relatively easy to make the summit. The descent route is the standard rappel down the South Face of the Tooth.
The original grading was WI3 low 5th 50 to 70 degree ice (1st pitch variation).
Ascend the obvious slab on the NE side of the mountain. The second pitch can be difficult to protect with screws or pickets and trip reports refer to long run outs on thin ice and balancy mixed slab climbing. Get on to the North Ridge. From here, many lines are probably possible with varying difficulty. The dry rock Notch has an exposed low 5th class/M3 pitch over the east face, another easier way up further west probably exists. After the notch, it is relatively easy to make the summit. The descent route is the standard rappel down the South Face of the Tooth.
The original grading was WI3 low 5th 50 to 70 degree ice (1st pitch variation).
3 Comments