Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 760 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jordan Simon on Sep 24, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is a good but stout climb for 11a. Perfect for getting in shape for similar overhung routes nearby. Climb more sloped holds and side pulls to the ledge for a rest. Try real hard to get higher, how do you even do it? Should I just pull through? Put off that thought til later, crank and get into cool stance under the final roof before the chains (might need a fingerlock to get you there). Pull the lip off a good hold, work the final couple feet until you can finally clip the chains! Phew 11a's are supposed to be easier than that.....

The climb from the last bolt to the chains might feel a little run out and intimidating (especially when the top is a little wet). If you have trad gear, then it may not be a bad idea to take few pieces and place it in the finger crack that is just to the right of the last bolt. It will make you feel safe when you are pulling the last roof and when it is dripping up top. Even without placing the gear, the fall is safe (but you'll end up with a whipper).

Location Suggest change

Just right of Crag Nazis', High First Bolt. 

Protection Suggest change

8ish bolts and chains. The first bolt is especially high, either get a long stick clip or be confident enough to not blow it. You might be able to stick clip from the short ledge 4 feet up.