By Choice and Chance

The Winds are full of unnamed lines. If you've done this route prior to us, please speak up. We found no direct evidence of prior ascents, but we've heard through the grapevine that the roof pitch (3) has been done before.

Scramble up sandy gully (see topo photo) for 100'. Step left to a big ledge to start the route where the rock turns good.

P1. 5.8 170'. Up and right on good cracks, then straight up aiming for the red corner system/chimney. Ends on thin crack and face moves to gain a large belay ledge just left of the chimney. Good pro, good rock if discontinuous and broken.

P2. 5.10- 130'. Leave the belay ledge. move right across red granite on face holds. Enter the chimney and climb for 30'. Exit left on a large ramp, and aiming for a section of good handcrack which arcs up and left. Move left across broken rock and execute a tricky 5.10 mantel with small pro to gain a nice belay.

P3. 5.11, 80'. Fire through the bottom roof on wide hands and fists, proceed up on thin crack to another hands roof. Burly, airy, and tough. A truly rad piece of rock. Ends on massive party ledge shared w/ Giant's bite

Walk right on the party ledge until it ends. Rebuild your belay when you spot the obvious R-facing flake far overhead.

P4. 5.10- 120'. Another great pitch. Hands, fingers, and delicate face moves lead straight up to a right facing flake that takes good pro. Make a tricky move at the top of the flake to gain an amazing left-trending handcrack, leading up to a ledge system. Head up and right to a ledge. Build the belay out right below a steep and flared fingercrack.

P5. 5.11 60'. You may think you're in the Tetons with this level of funk. Crank through finger pods, switch to a lieback, and lunge for a jug out right. Kick your feet right, then enter a chimney for a few moves and execute a tricky pegmatite and diorite traverse right to a belay ledge that features a massive flake boulder. Use small pro, think zero-size cams and tiny stoppers, to build your anchor.

P6. 5.10-, 190'. Climb the vegetated cracks in the inset wall on gardened placements and jams (not sketchy, we promise). Step left onto a ledge, then climb up and left into a fists/OW corner with good feet. Pull the small roof and continue to a large ledge system. Move right at the ledge, and climb the amazing orange arete on massive crystal jugs. Continue on broken rock to the summit.

On the Big Red Buttress, right of the Giant's Bite. Reference topo and photos. Locate a corner in the center of the Big Red Buttress that eventually splits into two vegetated crack systems.

Stoppers including micro. Doubles from 0 to 3, one 4 Camalot. Optional 5.