Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Greg Collins
Page Views: 2,561 total · 20/month
Shared By: matt j hartman on Sep 5, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

This is a good route on good rock once one navigates the more adventurous lower pitches. Move to the obvious buttress on the right of the large couloir that splits the cirque. Locate a very splitter dihedral above. You want to get here.
p-1 choose either face or chimney for a ropelength to a grassy, loose ledge 5.7.
p-2 climb towards the looming dihedral avoiding loose blocks on face. belay at a small stance below corner 5.9. 100'
p-3 this pitch is easily 3 stars. climb the splitter hand crack (if this pitch were at Indian Creek there would be a line up) for 80' and exit to the left, then move right for 20 feet to a huge grassy ledge. 5.9+ 100'
p-4 climb to the left of the huge chimney to an exposed belay stance on prow. better than it looks 5.6 140'.
p-5 climb straight up prow to an alcove 50' from summit 5.8 150'.
p-6 climb up and left to summit (it will make sense). follow the easiest cracks and best rock 5.9 90'. Belay from summit blocks and descend grassy slopes to the SW, turn E in creek back to Leg Lake.

Location

Big Red Buttress is very obvious from the lake. It is the only butress in the cirque. It is also big and red.

Protection

Alpine rack. Extra hand sizes.

Photos