Avg: 3.8 from 20 votes
|Type:||Sport, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Evan Mathews, Matthew Abbott (July 2018)|
|Page Views:||4,500 total · 87/month|
|Shared By:||Orphaned User on Jul 5, 2018|
|Admins:||GRK, Zach Wahrer|
A nice direct line up the right side of Ross’s north east face. Although this is a bolted rock climb, it is by no means a leisurely sport route. This alpine style climb was bolted ground up, entirely from stances so expect an adventurous nature and runout climbing on easy terrain. Basic mountaineering skills and knowledge are required and even though the majority of the route is quite clean for an alpine wall, keep and eye out for occasional loose rock.
Pitch 1, 5.8
Follow a large easy crack to the first bolt (first bolt height depends on snow level) below a right arching dihedral/overlap with some cool runnels above. Climb up and over the overlap and through the runnels to a small ledge. Continue up and to the right past a few bolts to a small crack next to the last bolt. Climb left past the last bolt to a bolted belay at a decent stance next to a small shrub.
Pitch 2, 5.11
Make some heads up moves off the belay to a good stance and clip the first bolt. Punch it up through the main crux overlap and continue through excellent climbing past three more cruxy overlaps to a nice bolted belay.
Pitch 3, 5.9
Move up and left off the belay and onto a most excellent slab. Climb through a nice long stretch of absolutely amazing chert patina to an easy ramp leading up and right to a bolted belay.
Pitch 4, 5.8
Climb up through low angle terrain to the large left facing dihedral feature. Continue through easy but run-out climbing up the steepening feature eventually stemming and climbing up onto the feature itself. Move out right onto the face past a couple of bolts to a nice bolted belay below some small trees. An adventurous pitch with a wild position! Runner things well, keep an eye out for some loose rock.
Pitch 5, 5.3
From the belay traverse directly right through some 4th class terrain (stay roped up) for about 40 feet or so eventually joining up with the large gully system that runs up and left across the wall 3/4 of the way up the face. Cross the gully and make an unprotected easy 5th class move (find the path of least resistance) up into a small drainage that leads directly up to the upper headwall passing a large downed dead tree pointing downhill on the right. About halfway up the drainage there is a nice tree on the left (that may have webbing on it) that offers a good belay but one can continue to the next bolted belay as well. From the tree, continue up the drainage up and over a small block that has a few 5.3 moves (it's possible to sling some small trees on the left for pro) that lead into the obvious slot with a nice ledge and bolted belay. Be careful of loose rock. (Note: In need of an escape, the large 4th class gully system you cross leading up and to the left leads to the summit.)
Pitch 6, 5.7
Climb the easy dihedral up and to the right of the belay to the first bolt that is just out of sight and can be clipped off of a ledge. Continue up the fun face eventually trending to the left to a bolted belay at a decent stance. Runner things well.
Pitch 7, 5.8
Climb left off the belay up the more-solid-than-it-looks feature to the first bolt and continue up to a small ledge. Follow the left facing feature up and to the right leading to a small bulge. Clip the bolt above the bulge and traverse left under it, eventually surmounting the bulge on the left, and climbing back up and to the right. Follow a few more bolts up a nice panel of rock to a bolted belay on a super comfy ledge below the last pitch.
Pitch 8, 5.8
Move left 20ft or so to a small crack feature with a bolt next to it just up and to the right of a small tree. Climb up to a small ledge with another tree on it. Follow bolts up the small gray bulge on surprisingly good rock to the fun featured slab above. Climb up the slab to a small inset corner leading up and over to a good ledge with the last bolted belay of the route. Watch for slightly loose rock on the last 20ft of the pitch.
To summit, be super careful as you climb past the precariously perched boulders on the right to a small ridge that leads to a last easy but unprotected 5th class move to gain the top of the headwall feature. On top of the feature there is a nice space to set up a seated hip belay to bring up your partner. Scramble down the back side of the feature and up the hill to the summit of Ross Peak! To descend, see the descent beta on the main Ross Peak page.