Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bob Gaines, Kelly Vaught, and Frank Bentwood, August 2003.
Page Views: 225 total · 16/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jun 27, 2018
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route begins on the right side of Diamondback Buttress' north face. The first pitch is great fun- the second pitch has some mandatory 5.7 R climbing, plus a punishing 10a offwidth.

Pitch 1: Lieback a flake (5.8) that slants up and left, then climb an interesting face past 5 bolts (10a above the last bolt) to the ledge and 2-bolt anchor shared with The Beast (130 feet).

Pitch 2: Climb a 5.9 crack that arches right (or the easier face further right), then lieback an unprotected corner (5.7 R) that leads to an awkward offwidth crack (5.10a). Belay at the base of the summit block.

Pitch 3: Climb the right side (west side) of the block, up an easy, juggy face, to a belay at a notch.

A short scramble leads to the summit where there's a 2-bolt anchor.

Descent: Scrable down the west side (toward Tahquitz Rock) to find the rappel bolts. A 100-foot rappel plus some 4th class downclimbing gets you down to the North Gully.

A Detailed topo of the route is included in the Best Climbs Tahquitz and Suicide guidebook.


Pro: to 3 inches.