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Routes in Diamondback Buttress
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Beast, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sidewinders T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 33.76094, -116.67982 |
| FA: | Bob Gaines, Kelly Vaught, and Frank Bentwood, August 2003. |
| Page Views: | 914 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Jun 27, 2018 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
This route begins on the right side of Diamondback Buttress' north face. The first pitch is great fun- the second pitch has some mandatory 5.7 R climbing, plus a punishing 10a offwidth.
Pitch 1: Lieback a flake (5.8) that slants up and left, then climb an interesting face past 5 bolts (10a above the last bolt) to the ledge and 2-bolt anchor shared with The Beast (130 feet).
Pitch 2: Climb a 5.9 crack that arches right (or the easier face further right), then lieback an unprotected corner (5.7 R) that leads to an awkward offwidth crack (5.10a). Belay at the base of the summit block.
Pitch 3: Climb the right side (west side) of the block, up an easy, juggy face, to a belay at a notch.
A short scramble leads to the summit where there's a 2-bolt anchor.
Descent: Scrable down the west side (toward Tahquitz Rock) to find the rappel bolts. A 100-foot rappel plus some 4th class downclimbing gets you down to the North Gully.
A Detailed topo of the route is included in the Best Climbs Tahquitz and Suicide guidebook.
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