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Routes in Slain Buffalo Ledge
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5.7 Crack (ledge access) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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5.8 Crack (ledge access) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cat on a Hot Tin Roof S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Flaming Arrow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Medicine Wheel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 29.70444, -101.35951 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 771 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Joe Kreidel on Apr 29, 2018 |
| Admins: | mattm, Matt Richardson, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Jim Day, Joanie Mars |
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Access Issue: Tread Lightly. See info:
Details
The National Park Service manages the Pecos River starting at the Rio Grande and continuing 14 miles up river. They own the cliffs up to an elevation of 1,144 feet and have no policy against climbing up to that height. Climbing above that elevation is considered trespassing. On topo maps, the cliff tops tend to be around 1,200 feet. The routes in this section are on the East bank of the river between the boat launch and the Hwy 90 bridge. The NPS owns this section of cliff from top to bottom so all the routes described here are 100% OK to climb. There is another exception to the elevation rule: just north of the high bridge, on the east bank of the river, several acres of cliff line are owned by the Rock Art Foundation. This section at one time had bolted routes on it, but there are Native American pictographs there and climbing is now strictly forbidden.
Description
Get ready to pull out all the tricks...this route has a little bit of everything. Start by pulling a thuggy bulge, and then balance your way to the second bolt. From here follow a nice dihedral through cryptic sequences, alternating between delicate balance moves and power pulling. Some chossy rock near the 2nd and 3rd bolt - as well as some awkward clips - detract a little from the quality, but overall a fun route and a full value experience.
(Originally rated 12a, but that seems like a major sandbag; or maybe I just need to get better calibrated to the grades at the Pecos!)
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