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Routes in (C) Long Rib

Death Block Alley T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Early Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
False Rib T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roll Them Bones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Xiphoid Process T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Brandon Gottung, Ian Harris, Drew Chojnowski, Forrest Wilcox (2018-01-13)
Page Views: 110 total · 16/month
Shared By: Ian Harris on Jan 16, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

To get to the base of the route, scramble to the left side of the rock pile formation in front of the headwall. Climb a short 3rd/4th class pitch to get on to the ledge/rock pile.

P1 120 ft. 5.9: Step from the large ledge directly into a vertical hand sized crack, which shortly changes to two parallel vertical cracks. Follow the crack system until reaching a right leaning roof with green lichen. Follow the roof using fist jams and poor feet (#4 and #5 Camelots useful here). Upon exiting the roof, climb directly upwards on lower quality rock to a small, sloping ledge.

P2 100 ft. 5.9: from the belay, grab the large flake to the left and stand into the start of a corner. Climb 20ft to reach a small bulge with a yucca growing out of the top. Mantle the bulge to reach the bottom of a left leaning chimney. Upon exiting the chimney, continue following the weakness up. Large, broken flakes remain inside the crack providing some instances of protection. Finish on a decent ledge directly on the ridge of the Rib.

P3 70 ft. 4th/low-5: Follow the ridge up from the belay ledge to the "summit" (one of several such "summits" along Long Rib).

Descent: Follow the ridge East until it is possible to scramble down into the gully along a grassy horizontal ledge on the left. At the top of the gully is a large dead Juniper tree with webbing and a quicklink. Double rope rappel with 60m ropes will reach the ground South of the Rib.

Location

From Topp Hut Road, follow the Long Rib trail. You should end up in a steep wooded gully which leads you to the base of the rock pile formation mentioned above.

Protection

Doubles in Camalot .2-#3. #4 and #5 for the traverse. Set of nuts.

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