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Routes in Mount Patterson

Riptide T WI6-7
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Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 600 ft, 3 pitches, Grade V
FA: Larry Ostrander, Jeff Marshall, 1987
Page Views: 137 total · 14/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Dec 24, 2017
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description

Riptide emanates from the Snowbird Glacier, and even though the steepest and most strenuous climbing is usually at the start and near the top, there is no distinct 'crux'. The entire route demands care and attention as much of the ice is usually snow covered, thin, hollow, and brittle. Protection can be difficult and belays uncomfortable. That being said, occasionally the route will come in big and fat and the difficulty will drop a notch or two. Either way, Riptide is a stunning route and will be a memorable day!

Location

Riptide is on the south side of the east-facing bowl. From the pull-out about 7.5km from Bow Summit, drop down and cross the river. Hopefully it's frozen. Either ski or hike up through trees and and follow a rib into the bowl below the route. At this point you enter serious avalanche terrain. Work your way up several hundred feet of steep snow slopes to the base of the route, and carve out a belay platform. There is a bolted anchor at the top of the route, but most parties will rappel from v-threads.

Protection

Bring cord and a good selection of screws from 10 to 22cm for belay anchors, protection, and v-threads. Although there are some bolts and bolted anchors, they will be difficult to find and are of dubious quality. With 70m ropes, the route can be done in 3 pitches and 3 rappels.

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