Avg: 0.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 130 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Trevor Bowman and Emily Reinsel 11/24/17|
|Page Views:||186 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Trevor Bowman on Dec 5, 2017|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Start out of the cool, narrow corridor that separates the tower from the cliffs on the north side of the tower.
P1- Chimney up between the tower and cliffs for a bit, following a wide crack on the tower itself. When the chimney becomes too wide, step over to the tower onto a shelf. Crank a hard, friable OW crux with a tipped out #6 Camalot for pro to a ledge. Chimney back into the center of the tower to a stance and 2 cold-shut anchor. The rock getting to this stance is very decomposed, be careful what you use. 5.10, 65'
P2- A fistcrack leads to a curving, smooth squeeze chimney with a drilled angle protecting the entrance. Wriggle up this strenuous squeeze for 30' or so with no further pro until a horizontal placement (#.75 Camalot) right before the exit. The rock in the chimney is the cleanest and best on the route. The chimney ends on a shoulder. Yard past a bolt and a drilled angle on the short, sandy headwall above to the summit; this stretch would go free, but would be difficult face climbing on gritty rock. 5.9+, A0, 65'.
Rap off in two rappels with a single 60m rope.