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Routes in South Jersey Shore

2 Wycked S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Aqua Teen Hunger Force S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Blue Veil S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Carl Brutananadilewski S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Danger Cart, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dr. Weird S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dusty Gozangas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Frylock S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Happy Time Harry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jiggle Billy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jolly Sunshine Happiness S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
LIttle Brittle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Master Shake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Meatwad S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Mothmonsterman S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ol' Drippy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sonic Happiness S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sonic Rainboom S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: EC, Sept. 2017
Page Views: 114 total · 9/month
Shared By: EChristensen on Sep 18, 2017
Admins: grk10vq

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Description

Yet another central Shore epic 13a. Some of the best climbing on the wall but the bottom is still a little "fresh," although it should clean up with a bit of traffic.
Like it's neighbors to the left it's easiest to break it down into sections. Some 5.11 warm-up for the first 5 bolts will see you to the hardest climbing on the route - back to back V5 boulder problems getting to and clearing the small roof. The seventh bolt is very hard to clip so you may want a double or triple draw there. I figured it's 12d to the 9th bolt.
Next, a bolt of easy climbing and a great rest leads to more difficulties and some really good rock. The next 5 bolts are continuous and amazing low 12 climbing with a stinger move or two thrown in as well. Probably a 12c pitch on its own.
Another 3 bolts of easier climbing will see you to the final test and the redpoint crux - a V4 slab boulder problem 100ft up. It wouldn't be too bad it your feet were fresh, but they won't be.
So, in summary, 12d into 12c into V4 slab. Full value and very good.

Location

Center of the Shore. Look for the left facing dihedral. Master Shake begins in the white rock just left of the dihedral and climbs into it at the 5th bolt.

Protection

20 bolts to anchor with locking biners. 70 meter rope is mandatory!

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