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Routes in South Jersey Shore

2 Wycked S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Aqua Teen Hunger Force S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Blue Veil S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Carl Brutananadilewski S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Danger Cart, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dr. Weird S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dusty Gozangas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Frylock S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Happy Time Harry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jiggle Billy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jolly Sunshine Happiness S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
LIttle Brittle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Master Shake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Meatwad S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Mothmonsterman S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ol' Drippy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sonic Happiness S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sonic Rainboom S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: EC 2017 (first 8 bolts equipped and FA by DJAJ as part of Blue Veil in 2013)
Page Views: 178 total, 46/month
Shared By: EChristensen on Aug 1, 2017
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A phenomenal long, pumpy route on nearly perfect rock. Crimp your way up fantastic blue stone that gradually builds to the first crux getting to the eighth bolt. Something like 12c/d to here. Next, traverse left on jugs past another bolt. Make sure to milk the rest here and prepare for another tricky 4 bolt 12c/d. Mantel out the top of the hard climbing and try to prepare your feet for the final 3 bolt 5.11 slab climbing to the anchor. Seriously good climbing on seriously good rock. Seriously.

Location

From the top of the trail head left about a hundred feet. This route and Blue Veil both start on the beautiful blue streak just before the 40 foot chossy pillar that is part of the wall. Blue Veil heads straight up, Mothmonsterman bust out left after the eighth bolt.

Protection

17 bolts to clip and lower anchor. Shares the first 8 bolts with Blue Veil. Use a 70 meter rope! I'm not sure it was necessary but I placed long draws on bolts 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11. Once you have the 9th bolt (the traverse) clipped, you can reach back and unclip the 8th. I didn't notice very much rope drag with this method.

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EChristensen
Bozeman
 
EChristensen   Bozeman
 
I may be a little biased, but IMO this is a contender for best of the grade for Bozeman sport climbs. Aug 1, 2017