Discovery

Discovery takes a direct line up the northeast face of the Monolith. It was established over 24 days in the range (16 on route) between 2015 and 2018. We found evidence that people had attempted this route multiple times, but no evidence anyone ever got higher than part way up pitch 5. It is possible the Kanzler (Jerry and Jim?) brothers, among others, attempted the route in the mid 1970's. There were aid bolts on Pitch 5 to indicate someone had. In any event, it is almost certain we did the first ascent of the full line. We felt this route was one of the best, if not the best, alpine rock climb any of us had ever completed. It is destined to be a classic.

A triple set of micro cams is useful in a couple places, but for most pitches you need a double set of cams up to #4, then a single #5 and perhaps a #6 for pitch 2 and Pitch 8. Take a few runners and at least 6 quickdraws, plus offset nuts and micro nuts. A set of offset cams helps on pitch 4 and pitch 13. Modern stainless steel anchors are found on all but belay 3 and belay 8, but those take good gear.

P1 - Scramble up to the base of the obvious double corner. Climb about 50 ft to a large horn you can sling to belay from. 50 ft, 5.10a use finger and hand pieces.

P2 - Climb into the next dihedral with an awkward move. A #6 can be useful in the wider portion of the crack. The crack soon gets too wide for gear, but there are cracks inside that take various pieces. However, the pitch is a little run out. You climb the face more than the crack. Go about 120 ft. to a ledge with a modern rappel anchor. A double set from micro to #3 then 1 each of the larger pieces. 5.10c

P3 - Climb up and right in a chimney and then a corner for about 100 ft. At the top of the corner there is a ledge, but the better gear for the belay is from a stance in the top of the corner. Hand and finger pieces with a few extra slings protect the 5.7 pitch.

P4 - Climb up and get a small offset nut or offset cam, then do a committing 11a move. It's hard to get gear in unless you have (we guess) some offset cams. Without, we rate it 5.11a R. 50 ft. to a modern anchor. Small stuff. Offsets cams useful. This is a runout pitch without them. (Alternate pitch: climb straight right with no gear, then up. Maybe only one or two pieces for the pitch, but it's only 5.8)

P5 Climb up and left on broken ground, then out onto a face with a few pieces of fixed gear. Do some hard face moves and climb into a corner with a crack. A large cam (5) can help up here, but for the most part you need finger and hand pieces with slings. Belay at a small ledge about 40 ft. above the crux. 5.11c, 90 ft.

P6 - Make a few wide finger moves, step over some alpine grass humps growing from the crack, and then do 150 ft of continuous hand crack in a right facing corner. One of the best pitches I have ever done. If you need to stitch it up, you'll want twelve 2.5 friends. Belay at an airy ledge 165 feet up. 5.10b.

P7 - Continue up the hand crack for another 40 ft, then it tightens down to fingers at a bulge. Climb it and the face another 50 ft. to a broken corner and belay on a ledge above. Takes lots of small gear. 110 ft at 5.11d.

P8 - Traverse across the clean and low angle face with minimal gear. Belay in a wide corner with large cams (#6 useful) for protection. 5.5, 50 ft.(Alternative pitches: If you want to avoid this pitch and #9 and #10, climb straight up and onto a low angle but difficult corner (.12a). You might want a few extra micro nuts for this pitch. Belay at a sloping stance with a #4 and #5 friend and a .75 or #1 friend in a horizontal. Climb a second pitch, the Wizards Chest (12a), doing all forms of climbing in 75 feet to a modern anchor that is used for the rappels. This pitch takes up a lot of the rack with thought provoking protection.The two could be connected for one big, rack eating .12c pitch Climb straight up and left on easy ground to the next anchor.)

P9 - Climb up under a roof then left around a corner and over a bulge. Continue on easier terrain to a modern anchor at a stance below a guillotine flake. Feel free to kick that 'effing thing off when you follow the next pitch. We forgot to get it. 5.10b, 80 ft.

P10 - Climb over a bulge left of the guillotine to a large ledge, then traverse on broken and easy terrain to an anchor about 75 ft. up and right of the previous anchor. 5.9, 75 ft.

P11 - Climb up and right on low angle ground, then come back left on a series of cracks that pass through and around bulges. You are aiming for the base of an obvious golden corner above. Belay from a modern anchor on a comfy ledge. 5.9, 45 ft.

P12 - The crux. Climb up and right with a 5.12b move that gets you into a "V" shaped corner. Scootch up that with small gear, then traverse on a ledge to the base of the upper golden corner. This is a tips crack where feet are imperative. Alex Bridgewater freed this at 5.13a, but we are now thinking maybe .12d. Certainly no easier than .12d.  Leave the crack about 50 feet up from the anchor and traverse right on large holds. Do a .12a move (no way to aid through) to reach the belay. Alex Bridgewater freed this at 12+, but it can be done with microcams at C1 with the final move is obligatory. Belay at the stance.

P13 - Traverse low and right past a bulge with a few fixed pieces, then turn straight up the slab. Work your way up and right with small cams and nuts for gear where needed. You'll want plenty of slings for this as the gear is from varying cracks and could produce a lot of drag. The pitch steepens up high with a few hand pieces and a micro cam placement. Move over a large boulder then up a ledge and onto a second large ledge at the base of the beautiful white corner. There is a modern belay/rappel anchor. The pitch is 5.11c but being judicious with the gear is the real crux as it's low enough angle that you never really get pumped. 110 ft.

P14 - The "Skullf*&^ Pitch." Climb the spectacular double-overhanging crack .Lots of hand and finger size pieces. It steepens with very athletic movement to find the right footholds, then eases off after about 100 ft. and you find a ledge with an anchor about 120 feet up. Take a double set from .5 friend to #3.5 and a selection of nuts.It's 11+ or 12-.

P15 - Climb up and left in a couple of blocky cracks, then come back right and take a ledge to the right to a gully. This leads to the top. The pitch is 160 ft, needing lots of slings and a selection of hand and finger pieces for gear. Mid 5.10.

Rap the route on French Style (staggered) stainless steel anchors that do not need webbing added. The raps take about 3 hours to complete. Note that the better rap anchor at pitch 10 is on the "Alternate" section and the best rappel anchor at pitch 4  is in the alcove to the climbers left of the pitch 4 anchor.

North face of Big Sandy Peak, aka The Monolith as spoken of by Fred Becky ("I have never seen better rock, anywhere.")

Take a double set from .5 Friend to 3.5, then singles above that. Triple or quadruple micro cams are useful on the crux pitch, and you might want offset cams for pitch 4. Take 10 quickdraws and a wad of slings and biners. Take extra micor nuts  if you want to do the alternate pitches. There are excellent bivy ledges  just below the Pitch 10 anchor, at the pitch11 anchor and at the base of pitch 14 (this one may stay dry in a storm depending on the wind). And considering that,  dress warm... it tops out at 12,000 feet and is in the shade from 10:30 am on.