Type: Trad, Alpine, 850 ft (258 m), 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Sam Lightner, Jr., Mike Lilygren, and Mandy Fabel
Page Views: 1,554 total · 18/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Sep 18, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route

2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


This is an excellent climb that is very secluded and cannot be seen from the North Fork Trail. Fun climbing, very steep for a mountain route, and with incredible views. It's only flaw is some rotten granite on one side of the wide chimney on pitch 5. The route could be climbed in a big day from Lonesome Lake, but you would have to start before first light with the hike. Though it is only six pitches, all the pitches are long and eat up time so it climbs like a much bigger route.

Find the start at the center of the wall about 45 feet below the obvious chimney in the upper wall. There are a couple of large white blocks forming dihedrals about 50 feet off the ground.

P1. Climb the slab and trend right to the corner then back out left to the end of a ramp and a comfortable stance below the bulge above. 5.5, 40 meters

P2. Up slightly left in a fading crack then a hard right on a face move to a crack directly above the belay. Follow this crack to a ledge with a large flake on it's left below three possible seams. 5.10a, 30 meters

P3. Take the middle seem above the belay for about 45 ft. then move right passing a bolt that protects the transition from one crack to another. Climb the bombay-chimney/dihedral (crux) on overhanging ground. The crack eases and trends slightly right to an alcove belay. 5.11-, 50 meters

P4. The money pitch... alpine face climbing with various pieces of gear for protection. Climb flakes and knobs and cracks trending up and right towards the base of the chimney and a large square flake. Belay over the first bilge in the chimney on a comfortable and exposed ledge. 5.10a, 50 meters

P5. Ascend the chimney beginning with a widecrack/undercling then a wide chimney of good rock on the left and deteriorating rock on the right. This pitch is quite serious as there are some bigger runouts up high between trustable placements. Belay on a ledge on the left using a seam for gear. A tiny micro cam, and small nut, and a 2 inch piece plus a .75 inch piece make for a solid belay. Save those pieces. 5.10c, 50 meters

P6. Climb to the roof then out left on face holds and then under the large chockstone higher (5.10b at roof) Continue on with mostly easy ground to the ridge. 5.10b, 58 meters

Continue up the ridge for a quartermile or so on 3rd class terrain and then do an easy but exposed 5th class move just below the summit. Descend vie the steep terrain to the north to Lizard Head Meadows.


On the South Face of Dog Tooth Peak straight across the cirque from the Becky Route on The Monolith. The route is in the sun all day and begins near 11,000 asl.


Double set of cams from micro to 3.5 inches, plus a #4 and #5. Ten slings with spare biners will help with the wandering pitch and the overhangs, plus half a dozen draws for nut placements. A 60m rope is sufficient.