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Routes in 05. Rock of Ages

Evil Ways S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Go Your Own Way S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goodbye Yellow Brick Road S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Heart of Gold S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
It's So Easy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joker, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Octopus's Garden S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Crush S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Purple Haze S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shakin' S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Ride S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
You're So Vain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mike Engle Aug 2017 bolted by Mike Engle and Vern Phinney
Page Views: 66 total · 6/month
Shared By: Mike Engle on Aug 28, 2017
Admins: Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

Start on the staging platform up and left from the start of You're So Vain. Move up and right between a couple plants on steep rock. Gain a slab and step left to a crack in a very shallow right facing corner. Move up increasingly steep rock using pockets on the left and crimps and liebacks on the right. Make a thin committing move onto the bulge. Crimp and pinch and continue on mostly small but positive holds to a stance below the chains.

Location

Evil Ways is 20 feet left of You're So Vain and is the leftmost route on Rock of Ages.

Protection

7 bolts, sport anchor. Single 60 meter rope gets you back to the ground.

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