Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Wishbone

Blades of Glory S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Broken Head S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
In Record Time S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sacktapped by a Grigri T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stan Deazy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.10a T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wishbone Left T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Bolted by Paul Turecki
Page Views: 558 total · 103/month
Shared By: Jared LaVacque on Aug 7, 2017
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A route originally bolted by Paul Turecki. It climbs on really grippy rock with an assortment of feet for the crux between small interspersed hands to a long dead-point. The route starts in a black water streak and then moves up to the arete and upper slab, to the right of an arching roof.

Crux Spoiler:


The crux is a long deadpoint with multiple good feet from a small crimp and sidepull to a sloping left sidepull. Follow the arching line of bolts 1-3 through the crux staying away from the arete until the bolt line transitions to the arete. The crux starts at bolt one and is almost over after dead-pointing to where bolt two is, but ends when you gain the clipping stance for bolt three. The crux finishes as you set up and clip bolt three. From there follow the arete and face to the anchor. If you don't follow the arcing bolt line and head for the arete without doing the deadpoint, the route is much easier.

The crux is approximately V6 to V7-.
Rotate torso left and inward and latch the sidepull and lock down the thumb, lie back hard, adjust right foot and move to positive crimps and gain the arete. Good rest at the 4/5th and then .11 slab 2nd crux.

OR

Start the route and transition to the arete on more positive holds to the arete before the 2nd bolt and climb the arete the entire way for a decent 5.11 sport route.

Choose Life....Choose your own adventure.

Location

The middle of the Wishbone wall. Defined by a dark black water streak and arete.

Protection

6 Bolts with new hardware as of 2016

Photos

Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
 
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
 
I agree, it is kind of hard to rate a contrived feature. This route definitely leaves a lot of "which way" should I go versus what was intended by the bolt line.
Because of the initial arching nature of bolts 1-3, I assumed Paul intended it to follow the harder crux, as there are holds to do it. Gus, after trying, thought going right made more sense for him. If the bolts were one foot left, it would certainly dictate the harder line, if the bolts were one foot right, it would certainly dictate using the arete and avoiding the crux. But, what it leaves is an uncertain direction with a choice. Honestly, it climbs really well through the harder crux on good rock and fun cruxy moves. I think the arete climbs well, as well, though not as directive, I suppose. Too bad we can't slash grade the line, as it isn't a function of the route, from an administrative perspective. I am sure a lot more lines could benefit from having that be an option. Anyway Ben, thanks for your perspective and opinion. Sep 18, 2017
Griswald  
 
My guess is that the second bolt is where it is to keep you off the ground. Climb it either way it is kind of fun. Hard to rate an eliminate route. The crux described is harder than v5 for sure. Maybe 12\5.11 would be appropriate. Sep 18, 2017
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
 
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
 
That's exactly why I posted the section that stated "IF" you adhere to the bolt line, the crux is ... and the route is ... If you want to climb the whole arete and not do the crux, which both Gus and Spenser didn't stick and Gus thought skipping it and using the arete was feasible, then do it. But, if that's the case, why would the route not just have been bolted on the arete? If you wander on any route you have a potential to change the grade. I guess, just do that. I honestly think the line climbs well by sticking to the crux and subsequently adhering to the bolt line.

Lets face it, there is a shortage of harder sport lines in Hatcher and if staying on the bolt line yields one, I'm happy with that.

You can reference the pics for crux info. Small crimp with a thumb catch and left sidepull and a long deadpoint up left that then transitions through crimps to the arete and clips the 3rd bolt.

You're probably right, the top is more like lower-mid-11, but having done the route by actually doing the crux, the crux is not V5...also given that Gus and Spenser weren't able to stick the crux that day, that it is not V5.

But, I guess that we could state that it's Hatcher Pass V5...

Fortunately the V-Scale at Hatcher hasn't been affected by a scale that is relevant to the rest of the United States....Lol...

Ohhh Alaska, how you are such a much smaller version of Boulder Colorado. It was only a matter of time, I guess, I digress. Does anybody want to ring Andy and Lang up so we can start a meandering off topic discussionn of a 55 foot line? I'll premtively create a forum for us in the forum section... Sep 18, 2017
Griswald  
 
Crux spoiler
You can reach out right and climb the arĂȘte. More like 5.11 if you do it this way. Pretty contrived. Upper bit is no where near 11+ slab. Sep 17, 2017