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Routes in Waka Beach

3-Toed Relay S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bigfoot Sprint S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Buffet Line S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Cut the Mustard S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Donut Run S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Haus Frau S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hold the Mayo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Petunia's Penthouse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Phish and Chips S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Project S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Project: Knockout S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Project: Scare-Master Crack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Scare-D-Crack S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scare-Master S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scarecase Rapids S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Scareless S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Waka/Jawaka S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Kevin Rose
Page Views: 181 total, 40/month
Shared By: Scott Underwood on Aug 2, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Climb up a short face onto a wide corner with a lay-back crack in the back. Pull through a large roof using a hidden foot hold out right and jug rails up over the lip. Please use the new bolted anchor rather than the trees above as increasing traffic has contributed significantly to erosion of the cliff top.

Location

First route around the corner of the cliff.

Protection

Bolts to a NEW bolted anchor OR use 2 bolts and gear to 3". This route was originally climbed on gear with 2-bolts...realistically it could be climbed only on gear or as a high-ball boulder problem as Steve Teufert has done yearly after the FA

Photos

Lol, fossil. If you think it's better with just two bolts why not climb it and only use two instead of bitching about letting less talented people enjoy a good route. Somehow adding another bolt is selfish even though it harms noone and benefits many. Pshhhh Nov 28, 2017
Jeff Gepper  
5.9
WARNING! The pancake rock under the roof (used by many as a hold to clear the roof) is getting loose and will peel off soon. It is a good size and will not be kind on the way down. Be careful out there! Sep 11, 2017
fossil  
This route was originally led with only two bolts (one below the crack and one above) the dumbing down of the only mixed route in the area to just another sport climb in my mind is no different than if I were to put a chisel bit on my bosch and start carving the 5.12's into 5.10's. Both actions are selfish and disrespectful of the spirit in which the climb was created. Aug 27, 2017
For me, the roof pull felt like 5.10. Need to hit the gym! Or go back and find that foothold. Super fun route, I thought! Aug 4, 2017