Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m) Fixed Hardware (4)
GPS: 39.12819, -106.67344
FA: Lenore Sparks, Joe Crotty, Matt Reeser
Page Views: 2,223 total · 20/month
Shared By: Lenore Sparks on Jul 24, 2017
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Wild at Heart follows the seam, arete, and ultimately the prominent dihedral spiraling around from South Face of Wild Rock. Use the ramp, and clip the first two draws of Wild in the Streets to clip the draw leading to the crack. From here, we back clean the first two draws to minimize rope drag. I recommend a locker on the third clip. Now begins the wild ride. Jam the crack, and continue up and right through jams, horns, underclings, mantels, and stems. This climb has all of the moves. Long or double draws on clips 6, 7, and 8 will help with drag.

Wild at Heart is named after an epic David Lynch movie.

Location Suggest change

It is on Wild Rock's South face.

This gets morning shade, midday sun, and evening shade. Cleaning can happen in two steps - one from the anchor and the other from Wild in the Streets anchor. Sorry! The route is right-leaning. Or a follower can clean.

Protection Suggest change

10 draws and an anchor. If you are a bit timid, one can use a #3 Camalot in the crack.

The crack is gritty, and we were using tape or hand jammies.

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