Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Blanca Peak

Gash Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Little Bear-Blanca Traverse T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Ormes Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade III
FA: Enos A. Mills, 1911? or Carl Blaurock & Mary Cronin, 1937?
Page Views: 195 total, 39/month
Shared By: Daniel S on Jul 17, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Gash Ridge is an excellent way to summit Blanca via climbing that is more exciting the normal hike of most 14'ers. Once ascending out of the Huerfano River valley onto the ridge, you encounter increasingly more difficult terrain until you are near the summit of Blanca Peak While the climbing is never difficult by rock standards, the exposure will excite most who attempt the route. Passing the gash and the climbing immediately afterward makes the crux of the route. As with many routes of this nature, you can make it more or less difficult by your route finding abilities.

Location

Use the same approach and descent as Ormes Buttress for Blanc Peak. I did this route twice by reversing the route fairly easily. Reversing the gash goes at a short (20 to 30 feet of 5.6 to 5.7 climbing).

Protection

Most climbers will free solo the route and use a mountaineer's rope to rappel into the gash. However, a climbing rope, single set of nuts, and cams to #5 will give confidence to those not comfortable free soloing. If protecting the route, I recommend using a running belay to speed the half-mile or so of near to low fifth-class climbing.

Photos

0 Comments