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Routes in Guntower Wall

Avalauncher S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Detonation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fire for Effect S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire in the Hole S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gazex S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hard Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Live Ordinance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Misfire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Persistent Weakness S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Support Your S.A.C. S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 427 total · 27/month
Shared By: Refuge Jared on Jun 20, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

5.8 slab

Protection

6 bolts to mussy hooks at the anchor

Photos

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simon leigh
SF, CA
 
simon leigh   SF, CA
 
Not sure how this is a 5.7 or even an 8. It felt far harder than the two 5.9s and 10a immediately adjacent which always had much easier smearing with better feet on lower angle slab with handholds. My smearing may be poor, but the first 20 feet is extremely limited for your hands so you pretty much have to just walk up the pretty smooth surface and it isn't that low angle. Once you're above the 3rd bolt then there are more options for hands and it gets easier, but the tiny crimps will break off though you can always cheat and use the dirty crack to the right. Luckily the bolts are frequent because it's dirty and slippy. Not fun, and I'd only do it if you really want to force yourself to work on smearing technique without any hands. Sep 17, 2018
Jon Hart
Berkeley, CA
  5.8-
Jon Hart   Berkeley, CA
  5.8-
Right mussy hook at the anchor is missing its gate. Climb feels harder then 5.8 if you stick to the slab. Feels easier if you use the dirty crack right up top. Sep 23, 2018

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