Elevation: 6,347 ft
GPS: 38.853, -120.017 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 27,548 total · 1,418/month
Shared By: Refuge Jared on Jun 19, 2017 with updates from Trevor Vichas
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Well protected sport, solid hardware, stupidly short approaches, slabby routes ranging from 5.6-5.11, 1-3 pitches. This area is known for a few bolted multipitch routes, moderate low angle slab at Cal Trans Wall, more difficult and interesting slab at Guntower Wall, and even some routes bolted just for the kids at CHP Wall!

Routes were set throughout Summer-Fall 2016 so some rock may still be a little dirty or benefit from some additional cleaning.

This climbing area is just down the street from the Meyers community of South Lake Tahoe, Ca. There are a few good places get food before or after.

FOOD AND SUCH
In Meyers
Holiday (used to be Lira's) Market: Buy snacks and drinks
Roadrunner: Beer, snacks, and gas
Divided Sky: Draughts, full bar (including hot toddy), delicious sandwiches, and live music some nights. Small, local outdoorsy community vibe
Getaway Cafe: it's like you're eating glorified homemade breakfast/lunch. This place used to be a house so you're literally eating in the living room. Get the chorizo!

At "The Y" Intersection (50 x 89)
Refuge Coffee: Burritos, smoothies, coffee, beta; public cafe inside Blue Granite Climbing Gym (M-F 6am-7pm, Sat-Sun 9am-8pm)
Verde Mex Rotisserie: Legit quality rotisserie stuffs made into hefty burritos! (M-Sat 8am-8pm, Sun 8am-4pm)
South Lake Brewing Co: Craft beer brewery, with indoor and outdoor seating; outside food welcome (M-R 2pm-7pm, F-Sat 12pm-11pm, Sun 12pm-9pm)
Jalapenos Taqueria: Filling, budget burritos and plates, soft drinks and horchata

Getting There

While there is ample climbing in the area. See specific areas for their locations. Approach times vary.

For multipitch 5.6, 5.9, and 10c take a hard left (almost back toward the hwy) at the brown gate and follow cairns. Keep your eyes peeled, a few "false trails" here and there that dead end.
Wind up to slab then go left at base of slab. Bolts are super hard to see because they're painted not shiny.

After the hard left trail at the brown gate there are a few more trails that peel off the main trail, not super obvious so keep an eye out:

1) the trail parallels the crag for a bit and then approaches it perpendicular. when the main trail turns right and continues to parallel the crag go straight instead of right to find the trail to Cal Trans Wall. Goes up through bushes to the wall, veering slightly left toward the highway. Meets wall then routes appear as it continues left. fun low angle slab 5.5-8. You can actually link one of these routes to the multipitch routes above. Not sure which one though.

2) next left to Gun Tower Wall. This is a super short trail, connecting you to a crag that's easily visible from the main trail without any uphill hiking. 5.8-11 slab here. Routes start left of where the trail meets the crag and continue far to the climbers right as the trail scrambles uphill and finally dead ends.

3) Gun Tower Wall North (5.9-11): it's a stones throw right of the last route of gun tower wall. You have to take another trail to get to it. So that would be your next left off the main trail. Diagonal left on a somewhat apparent sandy turnoff just after the path passes over a pipe for water runoff reinforced by a concrete wall. Through the woods between delineating logs as markers, then left uphill by a boulder stacked with a cairn. Pull yourself up a small boulder to continue uphill then pass through a few more bushes to the crag.

Narrower but taller wall than Gun tower proper. Cool 60 meter route here (5.9) with fun sections. The leader will have to top belay their second then rap down to mussy hooks from the route just right of it, then rap to the bottom from there. Locate the mussy hooks of the adjacent route before you start.

4) CHP Wall (5.1-5): Another faint turn off of the main trail a little past the turn off for Gun Tower Wall North. Cut through the woods toward the wall and look for a climbers trail leading up and right to a low angled slab. Just look for the low angle wall of slab with a prominent water streak going down the middle of it and to the right of a large right-facing dihedral. This is the CHP Wall.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Meyers Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V4 6B
 6
Tall Boy
Boulder
V5 6C
 5
Aztec
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 10
4X4
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
Slippery When Wet
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
R2_
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 26
Divided Sky
Sport 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Gripworks
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Chain Control
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Fire in the Hole
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
MU
Sport 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
Avalauncher
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Live Ordinance
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 8
Gazex
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Persistent Weakness
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tall Boy Christmas Valley > Tall Boy
 6
V4 6B Boulder
Aztec Toltec Boulder
 5
V5 6C Boulder
4X4 Cal Trans Wall
 10
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Slippery When Wet Cal Trans Wall
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
R2_ Cal Trans Wall
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Divided Sky Meyers Multipitch
 26
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 4 pitches
Gripworks Slab O' Meyers
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Chain Control Cal Trans Wall
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Fire in the Hole Guntower Wall
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
MU Meyers Multipitch
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 3 pitches
Avalauncher Guntower Wall
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Live Ordinance Guntower Wall
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Gazex Guntower Wall
 8
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Persistent Weakness Guntower Wall
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Meyers Area »

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Fun area with tons of potential, great for beginners. Unfortunately we couldn't find the multipitch wall/Divided Sky which is what we were hoping to do. My guess is that the approach is overgrown. We also came across another pair of climbers that were out there for the same route and couldn't find it. We still had a good day on Cal Trans. Here's a map of the area, if someone wants to chime in with where the multipitch wall is, I think that would help a lot. UPDATED TO INCLUDE INFO FROM THE COMMENT BELOW Cal Trans: 38.8425, -120.0438 Gun Tower: 38.8440, -120.0441 Multi: 38.8424, -120.0453 Jul 18, 2017
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Re: directions to the multipitch routes - from the left end base of the Cal Trans wall, locate an electrical wire that has been secured as a fixed hand line (don't worry, it's not a "live wire"). Follow this up and continue on faint climber's trail that weaves through thick manzanita. The upper (multipitch) slabs should be obvious. The first route you'll come to is the 5.7. About 20 feet left of that is the 5.9. Jul 19, 2017
Matt Atwood
Bend, OR
Matt Atwood   Bend, OR
This is an awesome area! Well protected slab that is great for just getting out! Thanks for for the work! Jun 29, 2018