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Areas in Meyers Area

CHP Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Cal Trans Wall 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Christmas Valley 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Guntower Wall 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Guntower Wall North 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Meyers Multipitch 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Slab O' Meyers 1 / 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Toltec Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Description

Well protected sport, solid hardware, stupidly short approaches, slabby routes ranging from 5.6-5.11, 1-3 pitches. This area is known for a few bolted multipitch routes, moderate low angle slab at Cal Trans Wall, more difficult and interesting slab at Guntower Wall, and even some routes bolted just for the kids at CHP Wall!

Routes were set throughout Summer-Fall 2016 so some rock may still be a little dirty or benefit from some additional cleaning.

This climbing area is just down the street from the Meyers community of South Lake Tahoe, Ca. There are a few good places get food before or after.

FOOD AND SUCH
In Meyers
Holiday (used to be Lira's) Market: Buy snacks and drinks
Roadrunner: Beer, snacks, and gas
Divided Sky: Draughts, full bar (including hot toddy), delicious sandwiches, and live music some nights. Small, local outdoorsy community vibe
Getaway Cafe: it's like you're eating glorified homemade breakfast/lunch. This place used to be a house so you're literally eating in the living room. Get the chorizo!

At "The Y" Intersection (50 x 89)
Refuge Coffee: Burritos, smoothies, coffee, beta; public cafe inside Blue Granite Climbing Gym (M-F 6am-7pm, Sat-Sun 9am-8pm)
Verde Mex Rotisserie: Legit quality rotisserie stuffs made into hefty burritos! (M-Sat 8am-8pm, Sun 8am-4pm)
South Lake Brewing Co: Craft beer brewery, with indoor and outdoor seating; outside food welcome (M-R 2pm-7pm, F-Sat 12pm-11pm, Sun 12pm-9pm)
Jalapenos Taqueria: Filling, budget burritos and plates, soft drinks and horchata

Getting There

* Does not apply to Toltec Boulder or Christmas Valley *

NOTE
Members of the climbing community have agreed that, while there is ample climbing in the area, there is currently not enough parking, which could cause ticketing and even discontinued access to Bottle Creek Crag and the Meyers Area. If you choose to enjoy the climbing here, continue reading carefully and please do your best to keep this area accessible.

IMPORTANT
The thin strip of parking on the shoulder of the road here is limited, somewhat dangerous, and technically illegal. Local authorities do not currently ticket cars here because they understand that climbers use the area. Let's keep the area from becoming crowded or this may change and make the crag inaccessible. Please, please minimize parking at the crag by parking at Divided Sky, a nearby restaurant, and carpooling over. The owners and patrons of Divided Sky are an avid outdoors community and support parking there to access trail heads while reducing parking issues.

From South Lake Tahoe drive toward Sacramento on Hwy 50 West. After passing through Meyers area and passing all residential streets you will see a turnout to the Right with a big green avalanche control gun tower. If you start turning Left up Echo Summit then you've gone too far; the gun tower turnout is just at the bottom of the summit. Use this turnout to safely turn around (toward Meyers) and park on the shoulder (also known as parking for Bottle Creek Crag). Please make sure to park your car all the way to the right of the fog line on the highway. The location marked on the MP map for Meyers Area is where you want to park.

GPS coords of parking: 38.8423, -120.0404

Be really careful as there is high speed traffic coming around the corners. Please, Please carpool. The parking is really limited and with the popularity of the area what little parking exists is quickly becoming eroded. I am concerned that Caltrans is going to shut down all the parking there as the erosion worsens. Please make sure to park your car all the way to the right of the fog line on the highway.

Once parked at the location on the map, cross the street to the small turnout with the green avalanche control gun tower. Walk downhill and to the Left where there is a rusted brown gate. This is the trail head.

APPROACH
Approach times vary from 3-15 minutes depending on the area you wish to climb.

For multipitch 5.6, 5.9, and 10c take a hard left (almost back toward the hwy) at the brown gate and follow cairns. Keep your eyes peeled, a few "false trails" here and there that dead end.
Wind up to slab then go left at base of slab. Bolts are super hard to see because they're painted not shiny.

After the hard left trail at the brown gate there are a few more trails that peel off the main trail, not super obvious so keep an eye out:

1) the trail parallels the crag for a bit and then approaches it perpendicular. when the main trail turns right and continues to parallel the crag go straight instead of right to find the trail to Cal Trans Wall. Goes up through bushes to the wall, veering slightly left toward the highway. Meets wall then routes appear as it continues left. fun low angle slab 5.5-8. You can actually link one of these routes to the multipitch routes above. Not sure which one though.

2) next left to Gun Tower Wall. This is a super short trail, connecting you to a crag that's easily visible from the main trail without any uphill hiking. 5.8-11 slab here. Routes start left of where the trail meets the crag and continue far to the climbers right as the trail scrambles uphill and finally dead ends.

3) Gun Tower Wall North (5.9-11): it's a stones throw right of the last route of gun tower wall. You have to take another trail to get to it. So that would be your next left off the main trail. Diagonal left on a somewhat apparent sandy turnoff just after the path passes over a pipe for water runoff reinforced by a concrete wall. Through the woods between delineating logs as markers, then left uphill by a boulder stacked with a cairn. Pull yourself up a small boulder to continue uphill then pass through a few more bushes to the crag.

Narrower but taller wall than Gun tower proper. Cool 60 meter route here (5.9) with fun sections. The leader will have to top belay their second then rap down to mussy hooks from the route just right of it, then rap to the bottom from there. Locate the mussy hooks of the adjacent route before you start.

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Meyers Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V4 6B
 6
Tall Boy
Boulder
V5 6C
 4
Aztec
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 9
4X4
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
Slippery When Wet
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
R2
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 26
Divided Sky
Sport 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Gripworks
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Chain Control
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
Fire in the Hole
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
MU
Sport 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Detonation
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Avalauncher
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Live Ordinance
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
Gazex
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Persistent Weakness
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tall Boy Christmas Valley > Tall Boy
 6
V4 6B Boulder
Aztec Toltec Boulder
 4
V5 6C Boulder
4X4 Cal Trans Wall
 9
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Slippery When Wet Cal Trans Wall
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
R2 Cal Trans Wall
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Divided Sky Meyers Multipitch
 26
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 4 pitches
Gripworks Slab O' Meyers
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Chain Control Cal Trans Wall
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Fire in the Hole Guntower Wall
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
MU Meyers Multipitch
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 3 pitches
Detonation Guntower Wall
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Avalauncher Guntower Wall
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Live Ordinance Guntower Wall
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Gazex Guntower Wall
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Persistent Weakness Guntower Wall
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
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Fun area with tons of potential, great for beginners. Unfortunately we couldn't find the multipitch wall/Divided Sky which is what we were hoping to do. My guess is that the approach is overgrown. We also came across another pair of climbers that were out there for the same route and couldn't find it. We still had a good day on Cal Trans. Here's a map of the area, if someone wants to chime in with where the multipitch wall is, I think that would help a lot. UPDATED TO INCLUDE INFO FROM THE COMMENT BELOW Cal Trans: 38.8425, -120.0438 Gun Tower: 38.8440, -120.0441 Multi: 38.8424, -120.0453 Jul 18, 2017
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Re: directions to the multipitch routes - from the left end base of the Cal Trans wall, locate an electrical wire that has been secured as a fixed hand line (don't worry, it's not a "live wire"). Follow this up and continue on faint climber's trail that weaves through thick manzanita. The upper (multipitch) slabs should be obvious. The first route you'll come to is the 5.7. About 20 feet left of that is the 5.9. Jul 19, 2017
Matt Atwood
Bend, OR
Matt Atwood   Bend, OR
This is an awesome area! Well protected slab that is great for just getting out! Thanks for for the work! Jun 29, 2018

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