Meyers Area Rock Climbing
|GPS:||38.842, -120.04 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Refuge Jared on Jun 19, 2017|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
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DescriptionWell protected sport, solid hardware, stupidly short approaches, slabby routes ranging from 5.6-5.11, 1-3 pitches. This area is known for a few bolted multipitch routes, moderate low angle slab at Cal Trans Wall, more difficult and interesting slab at Guntower Wall, and even some routes bolted just for the kids at CHP Wall!
Routes were set throughout Summer-Fall 2016 so some rock may still be a little dirty or benefit from some additional cleaning.
This climbing area is just down the street from the Meyers community of South Lake Tahoe, Ca. There are a few good places get food before or after:
Lira's Market: buy snacks and bomber deli sandwiches
Roadrunner Gas: beer and gas
Verde Mex Rotisserie: legit quality rotisserie stuffs made into burritos!
Divided Sky: draughts, sandwiches, and live music some nights. small, local vibe
Getaway Cafe: it's like you're eating glorified homemade breakfast/lunch. this place used to be a house so you're eating in the living room. get the chorizo!
Parking is very limited near the trailhead. To make parking more convienient, safe, and to prevent causing any access issues to the area, we strongly suggest parking in the open lot of Divided Sky, a nearby restaurant, then carpool over. The owners and patrons of Divided Sky are an avid outdoors community and support parking there to access trailheads while reducing parking issues.
From South Lake Tahoe drive toward Sacramento on Hwy 50 West. After passing through Meyers area and passing all residential streets you will see a turnout to the Right with a big green avalanche control guntower. If you start turning Left up Echo Summit you went too far; the guntower turnout is just at the bottom of the summit. Use this turnout to safely turn around (toward Meyers) and park on the shoulder OFF of the pavement (also known as parking for Bottle Creek crag). The location marked for this climbing area on MP is where you want to park.
GPS coords of parking: 38.8423, -120.0404
Once parked at the location on the map, cross the street to the small turnout with the green avalanche control guntower. Walk downhill and to the left where there is a brown gate. This is the trail head.
Approach times vary from 3-15 minutes depending on the area you wish to climb.
For multipitch 5.6, 5.9, and 10c take a hard left (almost back toward the hwy) at the brown gate and follow cairns. Keep your eyes peeled, a few "false trails" here and there that dead end.
Wind up to slab then go left at base of slab. Bolts are super hard to see because they're painted not shiny.
After the hard left trail at the brown gate there are a few more trails that peel off the main trail, not super obvious so keep an eye out:
1) the trail parallels the crag for a bit and then approaches it perpendicular. when the main trail turns right and continues to parallel the crag go straight instead of right to find the trail to Cal Trans Wall. Goes up through bushes to the wall, veering slightly left toward the highway. Meets wall then routes appear as it continues left. fun low angle slab 5.5-8. You can actually link one of these routes to the multipitch routes above. Not sure which one though.
2) next left to Guntower Wall. This is a super short trail, connecting you to a crag that's easily visible from the main trail without any uphill hiking. 5.8-11 slab here. Routes start left of where the trail meets the crag and continue far to the climbers right as the trail scrambles uphill and finally dead ends.
3) Guntower Wall North (5.9-11): it's a stones throw right of the last route of guntower wall. You have to take another trail to get to it. So that would be your next left off the main trail. Diagonal left on a somewhat apparent sandy turnoff just after the path passes over a pipe for water runoff reinforced by a concrete wall. Through the woods between delineating logs as markers, then left uphill by a boulder stacked with a cairn. Pull yourself up a small boulder to continue uphill then pass through a few more bushes to the crag.
Narrower but taller wall than Guntower proper. Cool 60 meter route here (5.9) with fun sections. The leader will have to top belay their second then rap down to mussies from the route just right of it, then rap to the bottom from there. Locate the mussies of the adjacent route before you start.
Classic Climbing Routes at Meyers Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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