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Routes in Cragganzenden

4 Star 12a S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Centrifuge S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Clippy Clip S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Den Mother S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lombard Street S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lucy's Perch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not as Beefy as Your Bolts S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Opening Day S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pringles S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Radioactive S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Toscano S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whoa Many So Manys S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Glenn Ritter, Joi Matsukawa 2017
Page Views: 664 total · 51/month
Shared By: Glenn Ritter on May 24, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

Yes, its a bit easy. Yes, its juggy. But even easy juggy routes can be amazing and Lucy's Perch is worthy of many stars! 15 bolts of fun holds and great exposure. The start is a little steeper and great holds abound. The middle has cool positioning up what feels like an arete. The finish is just plain fun scrambling. Be sure to soak in the fantastic views from the anchors.

This route is tall... a 70m with stretch might not get you completely to the ground depending on how long your 70m is. If your rope isn't long enough, you can easily lower to the anchors of the route to the right (at 2/3 height), then do a 2nd lower the remaining 80' while still swinging over to clean the draws. You can also lower directly down to the anchors on Toscano (the route to the left) and then do a second lower (but you can't clean the draws on Lucy from the Toscano anchors). If you want to toprope and you have a shorter rope, treat it like a multipitch and belay from above.

Gets sun and is good for spring, fall, and cool mornings.

Location [Suggest Change]

Starts in the perch at the top of the trail. Just right of the crack. From the base, you can only see the first 1/3 of the route.

Protection [Suggest Change]

15 bolts, chains with steel biners. 71m. Be careful lowering off!
Jim Clarke
Cottonwood Heights, UT
Jim Clarke   Cottonwood Heights, UT
Might just become one of those all time "classic cruiser cobble romps" of Maple...decent steeper climbing down low turns into a long scramble up a rib with solid cobbles throughout the entire climb. If you're lookin' for some long, fun clamberin' on a rest day don't miss this one! Jun 10, 2017
We tried to find this yesterday. Could not find the start. We found bolts going up a crag but there were only four and then nothing. Would really like to do this but need much better description to find start. May 31, 2018
Buritona  
 
A 60m left us about 30 feet shy. We were right around the anchors to the 5.10 to the left. I should have read the description. Jun 9, 2018
beck will
Somewhere in Utah
beck will   Somewhere in Utah
We had no trouble finding this route using the overview map posted on the Cragganzenden page. There are several alternate trails leading away from Zen Garden - I believe we took the middle trail, and it is just a short walk to get you there. These folks did an amazing amount of work on the routes and on the trail to get up there. We really enjoyed the climbing is this area - so thanks for all of your work! We took our long rope and had fun climbing this route. It is not hard climbing, but it is great for getting used to the rock here and a great view at the top. 2 days ago

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