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Routes in Cragganzenden

4 Star 12a S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Centrifuge S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Clippy Clip S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Den Mother S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lombard Street S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lucy's Perch S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Not as Beefy as Your Bolts S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Opening Day S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pringles S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Radioactive S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Toscano S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whoa Many So Manys S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Glenn Ritter, Joi Matsukawa 2017
Page Views: 270 total · 34/month
Shared By: Glenn Ritter on May 24, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

A centrifuge can be used for separating things. This route will surely separate the beginner from the crusher. Climb through the low bulge and past the crux at the 2nd bolt. At first, it wasn't clear we could find a solid sequence of crimps that would get us through the opening crux bulge. A "soaptone" cobble (you'll know it when you grab it), a small dimple, and a matrix mono were found to make a nice sequence. Hopefully folks won't twist their feet and destroy the crux crimp. If you are strong on small holds, you might find the grade soft. For the rest of us, its challenging. Gets sun and is good for spring, fall, and cool mornings.

Location

Located by identifying the small roof at the 2nd bolt. Lowers off at the 1/2 way height of wall.

Protection

7 bolts, chains with steel biners.
Stick clip. If you are shorter than about 5'2", stick clip the 2nd bolt.

Photos

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