Libro Negro

This route starts about 45 meters (150 feet) to the left of the Madonna, at a narrow buttress with an obvious fist crack that is clearly visible from the railroad tracks. There is an open, grassy are directly in front of this buttress.

This route is supposedly the first rock climb done in Colombia (1938), by a Swiss guide named Kraus. The guidebook lists this as 5.6.

Pitch 1

Climb the fist crack (larger cams needed) or the steep buttress just right (a little spooky) to a ledge. There should be easier climbing if you use the face versus the crack. Continue up to another ledge and a large block (there is a glue-in staple in this block that you'll see people TRing from). Step right, climb an easy chimney formed by the block with the staple to its top. Continue up to a ledge at the base of the black corner.

Pitch 2

Climb the black corner (crux, think about Kraus leading this in mountain boots, trailing a hemp rope in 1938), then continue up another corner and obvious features to the top.

The climb can easily be done in more pitches if you wish to stay closer to your follower.

Directly in the center of the sector.

This route starts about 45 meters (150 feet) to the left of the Madonna, at a narrow buttress with an obvious fist crack that is clearly visible from the railroad tracks. There is an open, grassy area directly in front of this buttress.

To descend, walk along the top of the cliff toward town. Drop down an obvious gully on a path, which will deposit you on the tracks between the railroad cut and Zona del Riel.

Single from purple metolius to #2 black diamond. One #3, one #4 black diamond. Numerous shoulder-length slings.