Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Libro Negro

5.6, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.6 from 16 votes
FA: Kraus, 1938
International > S America > Colombia > Suesca > 08. La ClavĂ­cula

Description

This route starts about 45 meters (150 feet) to the left of the Madonna, at a narrow buttress with an obvious fist crack that is clearly visible from the railroad tracks. There is an open, grassy are directly in front of this buttress.

This route is supposedly the first rock climb done in Colombia (1938), by a Swiss guide named Kraus. The guidebook lists this as 5.6.

Pitch 1

Climb the fist crack (larger cams needed) or the steep buttress just right (a little spooky) to a ledge. There should be easier climbing if you use the face versus the crack. Continue up to another ledge and a large block (there is a glue-in staple in this block that you'll see people TRing from). Step right, climb an easy chimney formed by the block with the staple to its top. Continue up to a ledge at the base of the black corner.

Pitch 2

Climb the black corner (crux, think about Kraus leading this in mountain boots, trailing a hemp rope in 1938), then continue up another corner and obvious features to the top.

The climb can easily be done in more pitches if you wish to stay closer to your follower.

Location

Directly in the center of the sector.

This route starts about 45 meters (150 feet) to the left of the Madonna, at a narrow buttress with an obvious fist crack that is clearly visible from the railroad tracks. There is an open, grassy area directly in front of this buttress.

To descend, walk along the top of the cliff toward town. Drop down an obvious gully on a path, which will deposit you on the tracks between the railroad cut and Zona del Riel.

Protection

Single from purple metolius to #2 black diamond. One #3, one #4 black diamond. Numerous shoulder-length slings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jimmy rockin up the right side variation of Libre Negra. July, 2016
[Hide Photo] Jimmy rockin up the right side variation of Libre Negra. July, 2016
Rockin it out on the first pitch of Libre Negra. July, 2016
[Hide Photo] Rockin it out on the first pitch of Libre Negra. July, 2016
Jimmy climbing the fist crack on the first pitch of Libre Negra. July, 2016
[Hide Photo] Jimmy climbing the fist crack on the first pitch of Libre Negra. July, 2016
Libre Negra start (the red arrow) as viewed from the RR tracks. The Madonna is to the right of this photo.
[Hide Photo] Libre Negra start (the red arrow) as viewed from the RR tracks. The Madonna is to the right of this photo.
The approximate line of Libro Negro is shown in red in the picture. The blue line denotes the classic 5.7 to the left.
[Hide Photo] The approximate line of Libro Negro is shown in red in the picture. The blue line denotes the classic 5.7 to the left.
The buttress containing the Black Book (marked by the obvious fist crack at the bottom) and the classic 5.7 to the left as viewed from the RR tracks. The Madonna is about 150 feet to the right of the photo.
[Hide Photo] The buttress containing the Black Book (marked by the obvious fist crack at the bottom) and the classic 5.7 to the left as viewed from the RR tracks. The Madonna is about 150 feet to the right of t…