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Routes in Main Wall

All Marked Up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Disaster Master S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Friskie Buffet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gnar-Gnar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Half-Leper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Melange S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Sic Nabo
Page Views: 70 total · 7/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Apr 30, 2017
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Listed in the Bigfoot Guide as another open project (with a very inappropriate name). Past the anchor for Half-Leper, it cuts right climbing delicate moves over a ledge. With that much rope out, you've never been so happy to see such closely spaced bolts. The last 40' is consistently very technical on untraveled rock and very very tenuous in for most of the way, with the occasional half rest. The crux comes around 20' from the end. I have not the slightest idea how to pull it off comfortably. The route has a lot of lichen, so I'm doubtful it's been traveled much. Climb it and clean it up for me, er, I mean for us.

The route has been climbed finally and thankfully been renamed!

Location

Start up the Leper and keep right.

Protection

23 draws.

Photos

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Sic Nabo
  5.12+
Sic Nabo  
  5.12+
Needs some loving with a wire brush (as do most climbs at the grotto) but the movement is top notch! Jun 2, 2017

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