Gnar-Gnar [Suggest Change]
Avg: 3.8 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 140 ft|
|Page Views:||788 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Lurker on Jan 29, 2014|
|Admins:||Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Description [Suggest Change]
Best trad route in the Humboldt area? 140 feet of goodness...airy, steep, and relentless. Starts on an obvious flake system in the middle of the wall. Traverse up and right on the flake for ~40', to the first crux bulge. Route is mostly hands after this point, with another bulge crux about 2/3 of the way up. Bring ALOT of long runners.
Location [Suggest Change]
Due to the traversing nature of the route, you won't end up anywhere near the start if lowering off. To clean, either set up a gear anchor and belay from the top, or tie two ropes together and belay from the ground (although you'll have to pass the knot). Belaying from the top is probably the more straightforward option.
Protection [Suggest Change]
Gear to 3". Heavy on the .5" to 2". Depending on your comfort level, I would recommend up to 4 each of .5, .75, 1, and 2 sizes. Starting flake takes smaller gear. Chain anchors at top. 2 ropes to get off.