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All Marked Up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Disaster Master S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Friskie Buffet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gnar-Gnar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Half-Leper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Melange S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Tom Ogden
Page Views: 761 total · 15/month
Shared By: Lurker on Jan 29, 2014
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Best trad route in the Humboldt area? 140 feet of goodness...airy, steep, and relentless. Starts on an obvious flake system in the middle of the wall. Traverse up and right on the flake for ~40', to the first crux bulge. Route is mostly hands after this point, with another bulge crux about 2/3 of the way up. Bring ALOT of long runners.


Due to the traversing nature of the route, you won't end up anywhere near the start if lowering off. To clean, either set up a gear anchor and belay from the top, or tie two ropes together and belay from the ground (although you'll have to pass the knot). Belaying from the top is probably the more straightforward option.


Gear to 3". Heavy on the .5" to 2". Depending on your comfort level, I would recommend up to 4 each of .5, .75, 1, and 2 sizes. Starting flake takes smaller gear. Chain anchors at top. 2 ropes to get off.


Verdi, NV
Lurker   Verdi, NV  
Kind of a sandbag at .10c...more like .11a. But Tom is kind of a sandbagger! Apr 12, 2014
Benjamin F
Crescent City, CA
Benjamin F   Crescent City, CA
"But Tom is kind of a sandbagger!"

he's the kind of dude whose grades are just all over the place. takes one to know one.
regardless, he crushes pretty hard, which is I guess all that matters. Apr 12, 2014
Evan Wisheropp
Evan Wisheropp  
What is the bolted line that goes up a overhanging flake and up to chains at the midpoint of Gnar-Gnar?? Apr 17, 2016
Nick Black
Arcata, CA
Nick Black   Arcata, CA
Great route, needs more traffic! Warning, lots of info! I'd bring a double rack from blue Metolius to a 3, with 4 red camalots, lots of thin hands... nuts also useful. Bring a runner for every piece you place, and a few double length ones would not go unused. I got shut down by rope drag about 30 ft below the anchor because I clipped a couple pieces short through the crux bulge, luckily there is a great ledge so I built an anchor and belayed from there, I was also concerned about falling on the ledge if you pitched off the finishing handcrack, very possible with pump and rope drag... The intermediate belay could be an option if you only have standard double rack. Either way, I think belaying from a gear anchor on top is the way to go, the rope stretch from using the two rope, passing the knot technique could be a bit of a problem if the second fell in the first 20 ft of the route. Apr 18, 2016

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