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Routes in Edinburgh Castle

Keep, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Queensway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 26 total · 3/month
Shared By: BigRed11 on Apr 16, 2017
Admins: BigRed11

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Description

The easiest route on the crag, with great climbing and fantastic exposure. Reasonably well protected (for the crag) until the crux moves, which are well above your last gear.

Location

On the right side of the crag, before the vegetated chimney, a big flake is resting on the face. From the top of this, step left and up to two co-located bolts, then traverse left around the arete. Up the face on jugs to a cave, then directly up until steep, committing moves left can be made to the grass ledge. Directly up to the bolted abseil anchor.

Protection

One bolt, then nuts. Bring long slings, though you'll likely only place two or three pieces.

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