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Routes in Edinburgh Castle

Keep, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Queensway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Elevation: 5,775 ft
GPS: -1.49, 37.068 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 169 total · 11/month
Shared By: BigRed11 on Jan 12, 2017
Admins: BigRed11
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Description

One of the biggest, baddest crags at Lukenya - home to test pieces that would make any momma proud. Expect long single-pitch face climbing with minimal gear, occasional bolts, and exposed positions. The easiest way up is on the right side, and all of the routes in the middle of the face are ultra-classics of Lukenya. Bring your head!

One bolted anchor at the top lets you rap down (50m)

Getting There

Approach is easiest from the top - park at the campground atop Lukenya and walk towards Mombasa Rd on good paths until you're at the top. Or go up from the bottom by traversing along the base of the crags from picnic tree.

2 Total Climbs

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Edinburgh Castle is an iconic crag in Kenya, and many of the routes are thrillingly runout. In 1959 when Mike Adams made the first ascent of Gateway, it was graded “extremely severe”. It was later assessed as 5.10a. A major achievement given that it was first climbed in mountain boots. It is worthy of note that the highest grade in North America at that time was 5.9! (Royal Robbins freeing The Open Book at Tahquitz). But visitors to Edinburgh Castle should ignore the route Queensway which is recommended above. The Keep is fine, and incorporates the crux of Adams’ route Gateway (5.10a not 5.10c as stated above). But the major routes of Edinburgh Castle are Princes Street 5.10b; and Traitors Gate 5.11c. Great situations, wonderful moves, and the real meat of the crag. 5 days ago

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