Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Dennis Horning, Jim Slichter, Mark Howe, July 1st, 1975 (ground-up)
Page Views: 68 total · 3/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Mar 29, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

Aside from Cleveland's Superpin route, 8 years prior, there had not been another 5.11 lead achieved in the Needles before this ascent. The free ascent of End Pin was to follow a month later (which has now settled at 10+).

The route takes a crystal trough protected by three spaced bolts. Bringing supplemental gear is nearly futile. Get the first bolt clipped by stemming off of the boulder then start off the ground. The crux is in the first 10-15'. Sustained 5.9+/10- climbing the rest of the way.

Excellent rock, bold run-outs, and historical significance make this a backcountry classic!

All star drive bolts have been replaced as of 2017.

Location

Start on NNE corner of spire. Bolts in crystalline trough should be obvious. Needles style rap.

Protection

3 bolts
no anchors on top

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Good work, Chris! Keep finding these gems for us. Mar 30, 2017