Type: Sport, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade II
GPS: 49.32385, -117.60928
FA: D. Lussier, C. Trescher, S. King
Page Views: 5,447 total · 47/month
Shared By: Kevin Mcbride on Mar 27, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Rukas Fodor, Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1: Climb a faint prow, near the top go right around a steep face. 40m, 5.8, 8 bolts.

Pitch 2: Continue on the faint prow aiming for a left trending gully system above. 40m, 5.7, 7 bolts

Pitch 3: Climb along the easy ridge feature. 30m, 5.4, 4 bolts.

Pitch 4: Continue along the ridge feature. 30m, 5.6, 4 bolts.

Pitch 5: The start of this pitch can be dificult to find. Go up the gully for about 10m, Keeping an eye out for bolts on the right, cross to the gully and climb up a shallow groove, work your way up the headwall with some minor route finding. Belay under a small overhanging wall. 52m, 5.8, 11 bolts.

Pitch 6: Step right around the overhanging wall and climb the steep face (long draw on first bolt). Continue up left on good rock. Traverse right at the 7th bolt for 10m to the belay. 40m, 5.8, 8 bolts.

Pitch 7: Climb up the steep face to an easy roof. 30m, 5.8, 6 bolts

Pitch 8: Climb easy slabs to the tree, either belay on the chains around the tree or the bolted anchor behind the tree. 25m, 5.5, 5 bolts.

From pitch 8 scramble up a low angle loose groove, climb a 5.2 step, one bolt on top for belaying.

To descend follow the trail that heads to the climbers left . The trail heads northeast along the ridge before cutting back southwest across the slope. Takes about 45 minuets.

Special thanks to Summit Mountain guides for the excellent route description.

Protection Suggest change

All bolted anchor stations. 10 quick draws and 2 extendable draws. 60M rope or two 60M ropes if you plan on rapping(not recommended).

Location Suggest change

From Highway 3A turn on to Ootischenia Rd, then turn on to Columbia Rd finally on to Arron Rd.  Follow signs toward the Castlegar Golf Course for about 600m until you see a dirt road off to your right, Mcphee Creek Rd,  look for the Skattebo Reach trail access sign. Follow this road to the substation, about 4.5km, park at the far end of the substation out of the way of the workers. Walk back along the fence until you see a dirt road on your left going up to the power lines service road, turn left at the junction. Walk several hundred meters to a turn around and look on the uphill side for a faint trail. Follow the trail to the talus field and scramble up to the base of the cliff.

Photos

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