Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 520 total · 15/month
Shared By: Russ Keane on Mar 26, 2017
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This climb skirts left of the big roof that sits above the "Good to be King" buttress. Clamber up the left corner of the "King" buttress. then start slicing left to get under the left side of the roof. You'll see a beautiful corner that will bring you up and around to the top of the roof structure.

This corner is awesome. It's got great positive finger locks, and is slightly steep. The grade stays 5.7 because of all the feet on the face to the left.

Surmount the corner and stand tall on top of the roof structure, on a ledge with pro (enough to build an anchor). **The anchor about 20 feet above this point has been stripped.** The guide book says the anchor is there, but it's not, someone stripped it. If you don't build an anchor at the top of the corner, you are screwed, because the face above this point is weird run out with no pro.

Cooter Bug is therefore: a) a two pitch 5.8 climb, going up/left to join with Weight and Balance Check; or b) the climb heads left to a rappel tree before you pull the best moves, which means it's not even a climb really.

Not sure what to say, except that people ought to know the anchor is gone. It was pretty dicey downclimbing from the stipped bolts with only a manky TCU to protect me back to the ledge.

Location

Walk around to the left side of the "Good to be King" buttress and look up at the left side of the roof that sits above the "Good to be King buttress. Climb up from there. The book says to start on a green licheny slab, but I would not recommend this. It was scary and had no pro, and was not 5.7. You can use the big wide corner of the King buttress, then slice over and put a piece or two of pro as you get up to the corner sequence.

Protection

I used small and medium cams. The anchor I built at the top of the corner took a 2, 1, and .75.

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