Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
|Page Views:||802 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Russ Keane on Mar 26, 2017|
|Admins:||Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
This corner is awesome. It's got great positive finger locks, and is slightly steep. The grade stays 5.7 because of all the feet on the face to the left.
Surmount the corner and stand tall on top of the roof structure, on a ledge with pro (enough to build an anchor). **The anchor about 20 feet above this point has been stripped.** The guide book says the anchor is there, but it's not, someone stripped it. If you don't build an anchor at the top of the corner, you are screwed, because the face above this point is weird run out with no pro.
Cooter Bug is therefore: a) a two pitch 5.8 climb, going up/left to join with Weight and Balance Check; or b) the climb heads left to a rappel tree before you pull the best moves, which means it's not even a climb really.
Not sure what to say, except that people ought to know the anchor is gone. It was pretty dicey downclimbing from the stipped bolts with only a manky TCU to protect me back to the ledge.