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Routes in Comatose Area

Animal Cracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Comatose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conception T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cookie Time in Budapest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Egg Hunt T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Family Feud T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gingerbread Man T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Lost Face T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Name Unknown T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Preying Mantis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pull the Plug S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Resurrection Ramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rusty Redneck T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
That's the Way the Cookie Crumbles T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trick or Feet T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 2 T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Waltzing Matilda T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,827 total, 31/month
Shared By: Jeff Jenkins on Feb 25, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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19 Opinions

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Description

This route has been TRed many times I'm sure. However , another lead route on this wall is welcome. The name comes from the fact its on Family Wall and that the opening move (crux) will be argued be all climbers, Dad may say it's barely a 6 , Mom may say "Oh it's a hard 7 alright" and the kids will have to figure out an extra move or 2 to make the reach. Obviously, height is an issue here. Bolts are placed so a 5.6 leader will feel comfortable with an easy runout at the top.

Location

This route is near the middle of the Family Wall or Montreat Wall between Test Pilots and Comatos. Locate low bolt (crux) left of the unnamed 5.6 bolted line on the right. There is a split trunk oak behind.

Protection

4 bolts and a small cam after the 2nd bolt , double bolt anchor

Photos

This is a 5.7 in the guidebook, and I think it's more accurate. No way this is 5.8. Jul 16, 2016
Caleb Mallory
Seattle, N.Carolina, &Hong…
  5.8 PG13
Caleb Mallory   Seattle, N.Carolina, &Hong…
  5.8 PG13
Great pink tricam placement to protect the mild runout between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Oct 26, 2015
Easier for taller climbers but unless something has broken off since the route was put up it's sandbagged at 5.8. Dec 18, 2014
Kevin Sparks
  5.8+ PG13
Kevin Sparks  
  5.8+ PG13
Nice route. Height-dependent crux. Interesting, high-stepping smears.
Bolts are very tastefully placed - pretty reasonable clipping stances, even for one stretched to lead 5.8.
Definitely a notch harder than Yardarm, say, at Stone Mt.

Side comment:
The easy sport route to the right has some suspect bolts - angled relative to the face, and one looks like it was pounded on a bit. Oct 20, 2014
chris mcguigan
belmont, nc
  5.8
chris mcguigan   belmont, nc
  5.8
Im 6'2" and I think that bottom move is every bit of 5.8

There is some small gear in between bolts. Jan 27, 2014
ShaneJenkins
Indian Trail, North Carolina
  5.8+
ShaneJenkins   Indian Trail, North Carolina
  5.8+
Fun climb that definitely lives up to it's name. The crux at the bottom is great to figure out no matter what your height. Dec 24, 2013
Mollie Kane
Asheville, NC
Mollie Kane   Asheville, NC
Jeff,
Thanks for the addition to this wall! Love the bottom section of this climb!! As you know, my shortness (5'0") sometimes makes clipping stances interesting, but I enjoyed the extra moves I had to make to reach bolts!

Nice line! Sep 24, 2013
Austin Harris
  5.8 PG13
Austin Harris  
  5.8 PG13
The Montreat Wall is downhill and left of the Comatose area (farther away), and downhill and right of the Testpilots area (much closer than Comatose).
The hardest moves are thin, slabby friction moves. It's not very fun unless you just like that kind of climbing. Once you get to the anchor, you could walk left to another double bolt anchor to Top Rope that long Off Width crack in the big Right Facing corner, or just that 5.6ish face just right of the ow (off width). About 6' to the left of that big Right Facing corner, there is a great 5.8 trad route going up that featured face, well protected, going to a tree you could rap off (currently with a rap ring on cordelette that I don't trust.) On the 5.6 sport route to the right of Family Feud somebody chopped the 4th bolt on an easy section (there are 4 bolts remaining). I guess the chopper is a NC local that likes to keep climbing unsafe and exclusive. Jun 15, 2013