Mountain Project Logo

Routes in EFS Wall

Brown Hole S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dancing with Rednecks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dixon Butz S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
EFS S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Half As Cool As You S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Illustration Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Michael Fitzpatrick S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pockajawea S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skeet Shoot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spray S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Sexy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Through A Brown Darkly S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Noah Stevens
Page Views: 275 total · 16/month
Shared By: Jason Stevens on Mar 25, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Box Canyon is privately owned. Details

Description

Climbs the arete right of the water couloir that separates the Cobble Roof and the EFS wall. Crux is at the last two bolts on a fun vertical section.

Location

Far left hand side of the EFS wall, first route right of the couloir. The Couloir separates the Cobble Roof and the EFS wall

Protection

Bolts, chain anchors. This entire route is equipped with Wave Bolt glue-ins.

Photos

Rob Phillips
  5.7
Rob Phillips  
  5.7
AVOID THIS ROUTE!!! Its position on the arete is pleasing to the eye, but that's where the niceties end. It is so incredibly loose and dirty that it is honestly dangerous to the climber and the belayer in my opinion. I pulled out two cantaloupe sized cobbles with my bare hands. To top it all off, the anchor is in poor rock and the chains are not equalized which adds even greater stress. The average 5.7 climber is not prepared to do the kind of cleaning that this route still requires as of July 2017. Jul 25, 2017
Keep in mind you may be within the first 5 people to touch the route. It's a shame it will never get enough traffic to get cleaned up now that your comment is here. Jul 25, 2017
Jason Stevens
Ephraim, UT
 
Jason Stevens   Ephraim, UT
 
I returned to this route today and did some cleaning and anchor station work.

1. I banged off a few loose cobbles with a hammer
2. I brushed and then cleaned the entire route with a battery powered leaf blower
3. I worked on the belay station, which now has three bolts

The anchor is not now, nor was it ever, in poor rock. The glue-ins are in absolutely bomber stone. Initially there was an expansion bolt to the right of the glue-ins and it was a little sketchy, but it is gone now. In the interest of addressing any reticence someone might have about getting on this route as a result of the "bomb" rating I added a third bolt to the anchor station and equalized the whole enchilada. No doubt this route will continue to clean up, but this is a really great route. The fact that it is an easy route in box canyon makes it unique and it should see a lot of traffic.

Perhaps Rob Phillips will jump on it again, find the route improved and change his rating?? Apr 5, 2018
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Not a bomb. Honestly, out of the 5 new routes in this little cluster, it is the best one and the only one I would do again. Climbing on the arete provides cool holds and compression moves. There was the normal amount of small choss for a new Maple route. There is a death cobble that needs to be addressed. It's directly in the rope line, right below ledge for the chains. I think you can actually see it in the above pic; big red cobble just right of the topo line. I put a big X on it. It's easy to avoid if you know it's there but it's very loose and the natural foot you would use. I couldn't wiggle it out safely. Next time I'm down there solo, I'll clean it up.
  • ***I went back up this route with a hammer and took down a bunch of rock. The best rock quality is on the arete itself so don't stray into the rotten rock to the right of the climb. I cleaned this stuff up as best I could as well. Get on this route, I think it's good to go.
May 29, 2018
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.7
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.7
no longer very dirty. a nice addition to the wall. Jun 9, 2018
Jason Stevens
Ephraim, UT
 
Jason Stevens   Ephraim, UT
 
Many Thanks C Hopwood!! Jul 3, 2018

More About Illustration Arete

Printer-Friendly