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Routes in Kindergarten Rock

Teachers Pet S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Vern Phinney and Bob Bowman 1986 Ground Up
Page Views: 90 total, 11/month
Shared By: Mike Madsen on Mar 20, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

We all know that one person who sucks up and never gets punished. The one when your teacher says class is over but they continue to ask pointless questions and before you know it class has gone 30 min over...Course the teacher loves this kid. He's the one asking if there will be any homework assigned over a break... You over hear him brag about how he crushes at climbing. Then the day comes when they ask you to take them out rock climbing. You agree with a shit grin on your face. This route pops into mind. Sure from the ground the route doesn't look like anything to hard. Your climbing partner begins to get cocky about how he can easily lead 5 whatever. You tell him this route is perfect which by all means is true in some form. He sacks up and gets to the first bolt only to realize the second bolt is out right across a sea of fine grain sandpaper like granite. He shouts down and asks, "Where the holds!" from here you just smile and kick back.
Great climb that should be climbed more often in my opinion. Follow the horizontal crack at the base up and left. Stand up and clip the first high bolt. From here tell yourself the friction is good and pull the bulge onto the slab. Lucky you clipped an extended draw for the first bolt. Move out right across no hands but good smears if your into that kind of thing. Trust your smears they are good at one point you can take a no hands rest and chalk up right before the second bolt. Easy if you have big spans this section can go by quick. Clip the second bolt and exhale. Now pull 2 more moves on tiny one finger crystals and smear up above the bolt. You will see a nice jug hold out left appear. Latch this and the hard stuff is over. Climbs up the well protected arete feature. Gain the huge chicken head knob right before the head wall. Take a rest and see if your ready for graduation. Pull crystals to the top and after the last bolt move out left to the anchors which is the final easy test. Only because its kind of awkward. Guidebook says 5.8+ i felt the start was alittle more on the 5.8+/5.9- grade IMHO.

Location

this is on the arete feature that faces Pointy Little Devil. Up Hill side of formation

Protection

8 Bolts bring one extendable for the first bolt.
two sets of chain anchors on top

Photos

Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.9
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
  5.9
agree with description. great route that throws a big punch of slab and crystal pinching variety. Now that I'm in the gym mostly this would be a heady lead to come back to and I'm glad I got to follow on it. Mar 20, 2017