Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Routes in Pincushion Peak (Damsel Peak)
|Integrity Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Kyle Willis Henri Alexander-01/2017|
|Page Views:||487 total, 42/month|
|Shared By:||Flavaflav on Jan 3, 2017|
Construction Area technically blocks the area from entry from the East. Details
You could access this area by going around road barriers, but the legality of this is questionable. The road in begins reasonably, then high clearance is required, then serious 4x4 required to get into the park boundary.
LocationPincushion Peak looms north of Red Rock in the La Madre range, and next to "Little Red Rock". Integrity Ridge is at times difficult to distinguish, and other times plainly obvious, as the limestone blends into the other faces in the area. It can be seen nearly anywhere from town. I always wanted to put an adventure route up so people could climb even if the weather did not cooperate with rain.
Overview and ApproachThis is not a route defined by the sandstone standards of Red Rock. It is however a nice alpine-style endeavor on a rock-type unaffected by rain, and the rock is still sticky when wet(sharp). While the route-finding and different climbing will keep you interested, the views are gorgeous. Prepare for a lot of movement, pack light. Be careful of loose dirt dislodging rocks on approach and descent.
Updated approach: follow directions on main page. Drive as close to the ridge as possible, walking up the road a few minutes to get to a spot that looks reasonable. Head up the slopes to the ridgeline, passing or climbing gendarmes as you please. Head to the starting point. Appx. 45 minutes.
End at a easy looking dark featured face, leading up to the main corner feature on the ridge's technical section. Rope up here.
Route DescriptionP1 A little tricky to start, boulder up a few feet on good holds, then a little left up to the corner. A short pitch for better rope management, belay in a horizontal up left. .5 cams/pink tricams 5.7
P2 Lead up the corner for more than half a rope length, fun stemming and jugs to a huge ledge. 5.7
P3 Looking around, we went left around the arete and climbed the left facing corner/face. Nice climbing. Up to a Small ledge and another arete. 5.6
P4 Half a rope lenth directly up the face of the arete, exposed climbing looking down a ways. a #3 was handy, but could definitely could be done without. A couple hand jams and stemming were great and well protected. Belay on yet another comfy ledge. 5.6
P5 Carry the rope up to the dark wall a ways, and wonder how this is going to work. Move right about 80 ft and look for a bush and block. Climb up good rock here, go left. Nifty jams and big jugs up the left facing corner. 5.7
You're not done yet! Pack up and head to the S. Summit. My suggestion is to leave everything here, summit the peak and come back down to this point. Traverse mainly right down to the pinnacle, and make your way down easily around the gully. This was 3-4 times faster and more reasonable that the gully behind the summit. Traverse and skirt back to your approach ridge, then drop down where ever you left your vehicle. appx. 30-40 minutes from the unroping spot moving quickly. The FA took much longer, we skipped the summit the second round, and just descended after the technical portion. 3hrs car to car.
Protectiona 35m rope worked
single rack from .1-2 camalots, double from .4-.75. In addition to this, tricams black-red are golden, but the route would go fine without them. If this is your first time on limestone trad, be weary of cam placements, and especially small cams. Tricams are your friends. The gear was actually pretty good!
About 8 slings, cordalettes for odd anchor setups. While there is loose rock around it it was really pretty clean climbing. We did a little more cleaning the second time around. Not wearing a helmet would probably be the worst thing you could do.