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Routes in Scarface Wall

Say Hello To My Little Friend S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scarface S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scarface Traverse S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Marcus Floyd
Page Views: 71 total · 4/month
Shared By: Marcus Floyd on Dec 1, 2016
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

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Description [Suggest Change]

Rock Conditions: Wow, was the first thought that went through my mind when I first found this jewel. The rock quality is quite good for more than a majority of the route. Like most of the rock walls, along this stretch of the Missouri River, two horizontal chert bands divide the wall into two or three sections. Broken pockets of chert are just par for the course, in these parts! The route gets its name from the large blocks removed during the initial cleaning of the route. The blocks scared the dark grey slab face below. Hence the name, Scarface. Belayers should stay alert and always wear a climbing helmet.

Crux: The lower slab forces some fancy footwork, using smears and small crimpers, other wise this route is a breeze the rest of the climb. Scarface Traverse can bypass some of the lower difficulty but is dirty and questionable to protect.

Weather Conditions: Scarface Wall receives plenty of sun, year around, so it dries very quick. Plan to experience great climbing conditions spring, fall, and winter, then beat the summer heat by planning to send these lines during the morning hours. No trees provide shelter from the sun at the belay areas.

Location [Suggest Change]

Scarface starts on an exposed slab or rock, several hundred feet right of the Spire. Feel free to rappel off the top anchors or and easy top out is not only possible but liberating!

Protection [Suggest Change]

Quick draws for the spaced bolts or feel free to take a few runners and small cams that easily over protect this jewel. Scarface Direct follows the line of bolts up the lower slab, then continues up to a two bolt rap anchor. Scarface Traverse is easier but dirty.

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