Early Access
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 39.97694, -105.30036 |
| FA: | T. Bubb, K. Calloway, 11/2016 |
| Page Views: | 893 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 6, 2016 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Detailed closure information can be found by visiting OSMP's Interactive Wildlife Closure map at osmpwildlifeclosures.org
Description
This climb offers some pretty good movement and position but is marred by a ledge in the middle and is not very clean yet, for lack of traffic. As it is, it is a 1-star climb. With the traffic it will never get, it might become a 2-star climb, but since it is not in a popular area, it would require a concerted effort to clean it up a bit.
Climb up the initial cracks and flakes for a about 40 feet, heading slightly left. The rock here is reasonably good, but there is some lichen to be dealt with. As you get higher, the angle rolls off and you scamper up to the base of the upper crack, which you may suddenly realize is much steeper that it looks from the ground. Place a very solid #3 Camalot in an inset just down and left of the bulging crack before starting off the ledge. Move on up and into the crux section, placing another #3 or a #4 above and hit the crux, a 5.10 overhanging crack. As you get your feet up and get established above the bulge, the climbing kicks back to a lower angle and an easier grade. Likewise, the gear size becomes hands or smaller. Cruise up the remaining rock to the top and belay.
Location
On the right hand (South) end of the Tunnel Tower, a crack and flake system runs up and right through the lower 1/2 of the crag to intercept the bulging hand-crack on the upper half of the crag, a few meters to the right of the rotten-looking summit spire.
That crack system is the route described here.



0 Comments